The great diversion of grounds
Contestant, punk unabashedly shakes up British symbols. The kilt is thus slipped on trousers and its famous striped fabric, the tartan, is found printed on cotton pieces. The Union Jack, the flag of the United Kingdom with its 3 superimposed crosses, sits majestically on T-shirts or is imprisoned in badges. Even the portrait of the queen is pinned down, becoming a motif among many and a new thumbs down on the established order.
The fishnet
She used to show off in stockings and socks. With punks, the fishnet goes up a notch. This net fabric in which the Spanish chignons were once imprisoned is here becoming the ultimate neglected. According to desires and moods, it is found associated with the mesh, as soon as it is stretched. The ensemble, without outfit and shameless, then reveals skin and nipples for these gentlemen, bras for these ladies.
The "manifesto" t-shirt
Clothing becomes politicized and becomes a standard with Vivienne Westwood. T-shirts, in particular, are perfect message carriers. The "No Future", "Fuck", "Destroy" thrive there, whether or not associated with communist swastikas or red stars. The "A" of anarchy is not left out either. Traced in felt-tip pen, these slogans celebrate home-made, that is, the “do it yourself” so popular with the movement in reaction to the consumerist society.
The Doc Martens
After the war, a wounded German soldier, Dr Klaus Maertens sews an air-cushioned sole to his shoe to aid in his recovery. Years later, he sold his concept of orthopedic shoe to an English manufacturer who, after having put it to his liking, marketed it on April 1, 1960 under the name of Dr. Martens 1460. At the feet of postmen and workers, it is adopted by the punks, also followers of the Creepers taken to rockabilly.
Zips, chains, straps and pins
Far from the hippies and their sweet peace and love, this current is not really in the lace, rather flirting with the registers of bikers, bondage and sadomasochism. With these thugs (the meaning of the word punk), bike chains become belts, dog collars chokers, razor blades pendants, nails and safety pins become brooches… Even latex is Of the game. For the record, the shop run by Vivienne Westwood at 430 King’s Road with her partner Malcolm McLaren was renamed Sex in 1974. A reference to the name of the group Sex Pistols, managed by the latter.
Heads in the air
Everything is designed to displease. The tousled hair is taped to form "Iroquois" ridges at the top of the head, while the temples are shaved. They are occasionally colored, obviously in flashy hues. Green, blue… Dame Westwood has a preference for neon orange. These hairstyles are matched with a very strong makeup, the eyes outlined in black. Last dissenting touches at will: piercings and tattoos, seen on the body as well as on the face: skulls of course, but also the famous three dots in a triangle of “cow death”.
Today, punk always rocks
The ripped jeans, yesterday the height of provocation, are now assimilated. Perfecto leather, borrowed by punks from the rock scene, and pierced with studs and badges, is also making a comeback, like t-shirts with a message. The Westwood-style nonconformist spirit is still alive today, animating the fashion shows of the Briton of almost 80 spring. While it is in the service of other ecological causes, it remains dissenting.
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Article published in the issue Femme Actuelle Jeux Histoire n ° 16 November-December 2020