a raw perfume, military boots, a 100% sweet black wine

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Knight servant

After almost five years under the artistic direction of the Italian Riccardo Tisci, the Burberry house has chosen Daniel Lee to succeed him. The 37-year-old Briton presented his very first collection in February in London. At the heart of its subject: British identity, rainwear, English rose or duck patterns, tartan… But also the historic Equestrian Knight Design logo, imagined in 1901, representing a combative knight on his mount. Printed on dresses and coats, and even on the banners adorning the shops, it also gives its name to the flagship bag, the Knight, whose buckle evokes the bit of a horse. Designed in soft leather, it sometimes becomes a shopping bag, sometimes a messenger bag by folding in on itself. And can be worn on the shoulder as well as across the body, thanks to a long handle that looks like a harness that is shortened once attached to the metal buckle. F. Kh.

“A” story

When worn, Ann Demeulemeester’s first perfume – baptized simply “A” – echoes her style of rock and nocturnal poetry. Since leaving the fashion brand that bears her name in 2013, the Belgian designer has embarked on the manufacture of ceramics and furniture. The creation of perfume had been in the back of her mind for a long time without her knowing exactly what to do with it. She did go to Grasse to see what was going on there, took a trip to the Osmothèque de Versailles to smell the flavors of heritage, while being wary of any race for expertise. “I just wanted to make myself available to create when the time came,” she specifies. The real click comes from the time she spent in her large garden in the Antwerp countryside where she planted, not far from the vegetable patch, a hundred varieties of wild roses.

Immersion in nature and its smells infused her with the idea of ​​a perfume. She adds : “I also thought of L’Enfant sauvage, by François Truffaut, my favorite film. » This baroque scent, from before civilization, undoubtedly breathes raw nature: rose, jasmine, patchouli, essence of birch (to recall the leather she loves so much). The designer, who likes to master everything, built the architecture of this disturbing juice herself, resigning herself to getting help in the end from the Italian perfumer Nicola Bianchi, who gave this form limits, a framework. Out of a taste for contrast, she chose a minimalist bottle with an architectural silhouette and a simple white canvas case to paint. “A” is the first letter, the one that expresses the beginning. We eagerly await the sequel. Li.Pa.

A family resemblance

Excellent colorist and creator of pop and geometric prints, Arthur Arbesser, a Viennese based in Milan, has been composing his personal collections since 2013, slipping into them references to the artists he loves, such as Bronzino, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Balthus or Joe Tilson. . If autumn-winter 2023 is no exception, the Austrian painter Hermann von Königsbrunn (1823-1907) is particularly familiar to him since he is his own ancestor. “I have always lived surrounded by his paintings, bordered by a decadent golden frame, he says of his maternal great-great-grandfather. From the years 1850, he took part in expeditions of biologists and botanists to India, Sri Lanka, Greece and Egypt, in order to document the wild nature of these countries. He made charcoal sketches on the spot which he then translated into oils on canvas once he returned to Austria. »

Coasts of Corfu, palm trees of Ceylon, forests, umbrella pines in the setting sun… Arbesser had various original paintings photographed, in their entirety or by selecting certain details, then assembled them in a collage printed on cotton or silk by an installed factory. in Como, Italy. The painter’s signature (“HK”) and the date of the works have been preserved, sometimes appearing on a panel or around a sleeve. “The exotic, almost orientalist aspect with which we associate paintings with our contemporary gaze forced me to be careful: I could have fallen into kitsch, suits the 40-year-old designer. Gluing helps to avoid this, with its playful and messy construction, as well as the simplicity of the cuts: for example, I chose a straight, wide, unisex shirt. » This immersion in the art of his ancestor delighted the creator and even seduced the members of his family: “Usually they find my clothes too colorful or too graphic for them, but this time they’ve all ordered. » V. Pe.

Forward, march

Among the most striking trends of this autumn-winter season, the so-called boots “ranger” paraded on many catwalks. These shoes of military origin, robust and imposing with their thick soles, enclose the ankle, go up more or less high on the leg and multiply the distinctive signs. At Dior, boots cut in aged leather flirt with the knee, at Emporio Armani and Fendi, gold metal details add a precious touch, and at Chloé, they feature a short upper and, combined with a long white knit dress , defend a determined but gentle gait. F. Kh.

Bubbles to burst

A graduate in mathematics and philosophy, Anna Jewsbury, a 30-year-old from Yorkshire, finally chose jewelry as a means of expression. For ten years, his Completedworks label has been marketing ceramics, soon bags, and above all singular jewelry with a deliberately imperfect or asymmetrical appearance, inspired by history (the ropes of the moai statues of Easter Island, for example) , art (the dazzling draperies of Flemish painting) or everyday life. In this last category, after having made a pair of earrings in the shape of a scrunchie for the hair one of her hits, the designer is introducing this season a line imitating bubble wrap, with in particular a golden cuff repeating her characteristic relief.

“I like to divert the banality into jewelryshe says. In the studio, we started with images of objects or furniture wrapped in this famous protective plastic paper. After the first sketches, we thought about how to achieve a realistic representation. The metal had to give the feeling of the lightness of bubble wrap. » However, she and her teams did not use ultra-precise 3D scanning. “Our approach was more traditional, more artisanal”: by building a mold in which wax was poured to obtain a first prototype. There, Anna Jewsbury and her team had fun pressing certain bubbles in order to deflate them. Inside the bracelet, it was necessary, on the contrary, to ensure that the surface was smooth so as not to irritate the wrist. The wax prototype was then used as a model for the production of the final versions made by Thai goldsmiths, in brass coated with a layer of gold. V. Pe.

Royal Savoy

The sloping vines of Chignin, in Savoie, seem to be an inexhaustible source of energizing wines. Among them is the virtuoso Adrien Berlioz. Drinking one of his reds, made from the Doux Noire grape variety, which he has brought up to date, one is transported to a world of tangy fruits. And the flesh of this wine is so full and so crunchy that it assumes surprising alliances. As for Sylvain Ravier, he also shows the richness of the region’s whites with his cuvée Les Amandiers. From Roussanne, whose local name is Bergeron, his 2021 white reveals its depth despite its youth. It is a profusion of floral and fruity notes, according to a serene construction. L.G.

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