Azelaic acid is an active ingredient with anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties, particularly beneficial for skin problems such as acne and rosacea. How to use this active to find a healthy skin? We tell you everything!
Unlike other actives like hyaluronic acid or retinol, azelaic acid is a much less known ingredient used in skin care formulations. However, it is gradually starting to gain popularity because it is very beneficial for the health and beauty of the skin. Thanks to its anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties, azelaic acid is a real ally for people suffering from skin problems and diseases like acne or rosacea. It is also an excellent remedy for melasma, a benign skin condition characterized by hyperpigmented spots appearing on areas exposed to the sun, especially on the face. Azelaic acid blocks the production of abnormal pigmentation and then helps to treat stains caused by sun exposure.
The beauty world is increasingly starting to integrate it into different skin care products. It is found in the form of gel, mousse, cream or even serum. But how do you use it to benefit from all its benefits for the skin? Paula Begoun, founder of Paula’s Choice Skincare, is one of the first to understand the benefits of azelaic acid and to use it in the formulations of her products. The skin care expert has enlightened us on the benefits of this active ingredient which is starting to gain momentum!
What is Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a natural acid that can be derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye. The one designed in the laboratory is used in skin care products because of its stability and his efficiency. Azelaic acid is anti-inflammatory, it treats acne and other skin problems like rosacea. It is an anti-bacterial antioxidant that deeply cleanses clogged pores. Like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, it is often prescribed as a treatment to combat acne and its annoyances. In addition, it prevents hyperpigmentation because it acts on the production of melanin.
“Much of the research on azelaic acid has focused on topical concentrations only between 15% and 20%, but azelaic acid also has incredible benefits even when used at lower concentrations”, explains Paula Begoun.
The world of cosmetics is starting to take a very close interest in this active ingredient which promises to become more and more popular as its effects are stunning. “It’s a mystery to me that some great skin care ingredients go unnoticed for so long, despite decades of research proving they deserve more attention. Azelaic acid is one of them! Dozens of studies have proven over the years that azelaic acid has impressive benefits for the skin. I started formulating products with azelaic acid 10 years ago, I guess the industry is catching up ”, admits Paula Begoun.
Why use azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid reduces the appearance of blemishes, helps fade often stubborn post-acne marks, brightens dull complexions, limits environmental damage such as skin discoloration, refines the surface of the epidermis with its exfoliating properties and significantly improves redness of the face. Just that ! Paula Begoun even calls azelaic acid “Super hero”Of cosmetics.
Azelaic acid actually gives the skin a big boost by helping it to renew itself faster but also to eradicate the bacteria responsible for acne and rosacea. This then reduces the appearance of pimples and blackheads for much healthier and more beautiful skin. It also prevents what is called the synthesis of melanin, the ability of the epidermis to produce pigments that can vary skin tone, especially after exposure to the sun.
How to use azelaic acid?
More and more beauty products containing azelaic acid are appearing on the cosmetics market. It is therefore increasingly easy to find a treatment that suits us. Azelaic acid is ideal for combination or oily skin.
Nothing could be simpler to use this ingredient with many virtues. It is enough to apply a product containing azelaic acid with a concentration of 10% (Booster 10% Azelaic Acid, € 37, Paula’s Choice), the best way to start getting the skin used to this active ingredient.
During your daily beauty routine, the rule is to apply the different treatments in a certain order to boost their effectiveness. We therefore first use the most fluid products, then the most aqueous and finally, the creamiest because they are much thicker.
Azelaic acid can be used as a gel, mousse, cream or serum. To avoid attacking the skin, wash it beforehand with a mild cleanser (Evercalm Gentle Cleansing Gel, € 23, Ren) or a mild soap (Cleansing bread, € 11, Gallinée). Azelaic acid can be used morning and evening. For starters, you can apply it only before sleeping at the end of your skincare routine. If you have acne or rosacea, the best combo is gentle cleansing, a good moisturizer (Optimal hydration cream Day and Night, € 60.10, Ioma Paris) and a treatment enriched with azelaic acid (Azeclear A15 Azelaic Acid Serum, € 29.99, Facetheory).
Can you use azelaic acid every day?
The answer is yes ! It is possible to use azelaic acid daily and even in some cases several times a day. It will depend on your skin type and your issues.
If when we think of “acid”, we think of something rather abrasive, it is not. Azelaic acid is a fairly active soothing, it is therefore very suitable for all types of skin, even the most sensitive who can use it on a daily basis. It’s a gentler exfoliant than other alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acids.
Other good news? Azelaic acid can be used in addition to all the other ingredients in your beauty routine, although Paula Begoun points out that it is best to avoid treatments that contain irritating elements such as perfumes or irritating plant extracts. Azelaic acid can be combined with other soothing and brightening ingredients like niacinamide (Redness & Blemish Serum Niacinamide 12%, € 11.80, Typology), hydroxy acids (Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Anti Hyper-Pigmentation Serum, € 9, The Ordinary available at Nocibé) or other antioxidants (Worship High Protection Antioxidant Serum, € 12, Antipodes). Combined with hyaluronic acid (Shot of concentrated hyaluronic acid, € 35, Skin Lab), it helps keep the skin perfectly hydrated. However, it’s best to avoid overlaying it with beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid as this will increase the chances of dryness and skin irritation. If we want to use both, we keep the BHA for the morning and the azelaic acid for the evening.
What precautions should be taken while using azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid can cause side effects such as a burning or tingling sensation on your skin, peeling of the skin, dryness, or redness. But it remains very rare, especially when choosing a product with a low concentration of azelaic acid.
This active lightens the skin and tends to make it more sensitive to the sun. It is therefore recommended to use a moisturizer with an SPF index (Shea Butter Light Comfort Cream SPF15, € 29, L’Occitane) or sunscreen (Sunscreen face Fresh, € 29, Ringana) in her beauty routine when using treatments with azelaic acid.
Finally, you should know that you have to be patient before you actually see the effects of azelaic acid on the skin. If you don’t see improvement after a few days, this is completely normal. It takes at least two to three months before you see its benefits on the skin but do not give up because it is worth the effort!