Anti-aging cosmetics: cell protection for the skin

As the origin of all body cells, they have very special abilities: Unlike their colleagues, stem cells can not only develop into very different tissues, but also divide almost infinitely and thus replace broken or old cells. Both are skills that make them interesting for research, for example to cure diseases – but also for the beauty industry to stop the aging of the skin. Or at least slow it down.

Push stem cells so that they stay fit for as long as possible

How should that work? Well, one of the most common approaches so far has been to increase the number of stem cells in the complexion. For example, through injections. In practices specializing in aesthetics, these are first taken from the patient's blood vessels in the body's own fat tissue (e.g. on the abdomen), because they are particularly common there. They are then injected into areas of the face that have become tired. There they are supposed to boost collagen production and thus provide more strength. Less invasive: creams or serums that contain plant stem cells, for example from "Uttwiler Spätlauber", a particularly long-lived apple variety.

In the meantime, however, there is another approach in cosmetics: not to multiply the stem cells, but to push them with the best possible environment so that they stay fit for as long as possible. Using this approach, the stem cell doctor Professor Augustinus Bader developed a care series with amino acids, vitamins and skin-identical molecules, which stimulate the stem cells and are supposed to smooth wrinkles and reduce age spots.

Dior, or the luxury company behind it, LVMH, has now carried out basic research and incorporated the results into the new "Capture Totale Cell Energy" line. LVMH's research department has been dealing with stem cells for years and has teamed up with experts from the "Center for iPS Cell Research and Application" (CiRA) at Kyoto University for their new project. Director is Nobel Prize winner Shin’ya Yamanaka. The scientists compared stem cells from 20-year-old donors to 40-year-olds. "In the past, we looked at the cells' surroundings, such as how they react to aggressive influences such as UV radiation," explains Bruno Bavouzet, head of the research department at LVMH. "Now we could look deeper into the cell and find out that aging does not reduce the number of stem cells as was previously assumed, but their energy potential, by up to 50 percent." The consequence of the loss: The skin loses its radiance, its elasticity – in short, it ages.

Exposure to proteins

How can this be influenced? According to the Dior researchers, with an active ingredient complex consisting of four flower extracts, which the in-house ethnobotanists have identified among 1667 floral ingredients: longoza, peony, jasmine and white lily. "We don't act directly on the stem cells, but on the proteins, which in turn influence the activity of the cells," says Bavouzet.

A biofermented lipopeptide was integrated to reach stem cells in the deeper layers of the skin. It connects to the skin and is said to increase the absorption capacity of the care by up to 30 percent – like a personal trainer who ensures that the fitness program is done correctly.

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