At Milan fashion week, the BCBG style comes in all shades

By Valentin Pérez and Elvire von Bardeleben

Posted on March 02, 2021 at 12:38 p.m.

Renowned for tempering its creative impulses with a certain classicism, Italian fashion often revisits the myth of the bourgeoisie, this half-BCBG half-explosive archetype. This season, presented at Milan fashion week from February 23 to 1er mars, several claws handle it, in very different kinds.

Fendi.

Starting with Fendi, whose parade was undoubtedly the most anticipated of the week. On Wednesday February 24, the new artistic director Kim Jones took his first steps in women’s ready-to-wear, a month after a somewhat disparate haute couture attempt. This time, the designer has tightened his point. He drew on the Fendi archives while dwelling on the 1940s and only showed monochrome, beige, gray, white and black silhouettes. The result gives rise to an unmistakably chic wardrobe, made up of large belted fur coats, pencil skirts, draped silk shirts, tuxedo dresses for big evenings.

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In this ode to good taste, there is only the use of the monogram designed by Karl Lagerfeld (two inverted “f”) in the 1980s which denotes on tights, leather boots or the lining of jackets. The return to classic beauty canons also applies to the cabin: while in recent seasons, Silvia Venturini Fendi has appealed to older and more fleshy-than-average women, Kim Jones has chosen slender young models to embody her ideal for luxury in the Roman style.

Moschino.

At Moschino, Jeremy Scott treats the bourgeois with a little more humor. He first plays with classic codes – pearl necklace, suit, opera gloves, evening dress – in a pastiche of The Women by George Cukor (1939). Until its cast of star models (Joan Smalls, Amber Valletta …) revealed, under hairspray and hats, more troubled personalities, in variegated outfits in various theatrical paintings (walk in the meadow, visit to the museum, safari) . Dita von Teese closes the ball in this same double game spirit. She advances sovereign, in a blood red sheath… before turning on her heels and letting the spectator discover, on the back of the dress, an openwork heart strategically placed at the level of her buttocks. naked.

Max Mara.

Dress “The wives of notaries and doctors”was Achille Maramotti’s intention when he founded Max Mara in 1951. Seventy years later, the brand is aimed at “Female notaries and doctors”. The house’s signature beige wool is available in all its forms, in an extra-long coat, in a chic perfecto jacket, in a men’s suit jacket, in a parka with patch pockets … To complete their impeccable look, the elegant active women can count on suits. plaid, graphic tartans, oversized Irish sweaters and elegant organza frills.

Brunello Cucinelli.

From a distance, Brunello Cucinelli’s silhouettes seem rather all-terrain, comfortable enough for a daily life under Covid-19, elegant enough to lend themselves to active life. Up close, they are marvels of refinement, constructed in precious knits such as double-sided cashmere, alpaca, or mohairs as light as they are soft… What could be more chic than discreet luxury?

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