During the men’s Paris fashion week which ended on June 26, Asia occupied a special place in the imagination of designers. The tasty style of Boramy Viguier often looks in the direction of European history: Scottish tiles, Victorian references, medieval cuts … “What amuses me is working instinctively, without necessarily telling a specific story, but playing with the clichés of fabrics”, says the designer. His models, who run in front of the camera, evolve in suits and ties or tunics made from recovered ties, but this time end up in kitschy jacquard chinoiserie jackets showing dragons.
Charaf Tajer, at the head of the claw Casablanca, As for him, he turned to Japan, his country of predilection, where he visited nearly thirty times. The collection is called “Masao San”, after one of his friends he met there. ” Friendship is a primary value for me, I wanted to celebrate my friend. He helped me a lot when I launched the brand », Explains the creator. Solar, the collection mixes strong colors and pop prints, evoking both the allure of “Salarymen” than the cult of table tennis, an essential sport in the land of the Rising Sun.
Japan also appears in the background at Ernest W. Baker. The designers Reid Baker and Inês Amorim, based near Porto, resume their signature clothes – vests, fitted jackets, pleated pants, rosebush print – in a video where the models advance in the pouring rain, fueled in particular by Perfect Blue, the Japanese animated film by Satoshi Kon. “We wanted to keep the universe floating, between dream and reality. And this inspiration pushed us to inject more childish touches, such as Mary Jane shoes, schoolgirls jackets or pendants in the shape of milk teeth, a traditional Portuguese motif ”, explains the couple.
French Louis Gabriel Nouchi is one of the few to have favored a physical parade. On the Palais de Tokyo esplanade, his models walk on a translucent podium installed in the fountain. The one whose each collection is inspired by a novel has not obtained the rights to name the spring-summer 2022 collection after The Lover. But no need to be aggregated with letters to recognize, behind “The forbidden love story between a young girl and a rich Chinese lover”, the story of Marguerite Duras, Prix Goncourt 1984. From this moist romance in French Indochina (today, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam), he draws a luminous and floating cloakroom, “Made of these light clothes which populate the book and which one puts on without thinking after love”, he says: bathrobes with sand borders and a marbled shirt, a loose buttoned cardigan, mixed with his best-selling pieces, tank tops with openwork on the collar and openwork briefs on the hip.
Finally, for Bluemarble, Anthony Alvarez revisits his childhood memories in the Philippines, following a trip to the Siargao archipelago where he visited a few months ago. The colorful result is a mix of animal prints and surfer shorts, hippie reminiscences and stripes. The postcard of a distant country idealized in a wardrobe that looks like an escape.