At Paris Fashion Week, the costume comes back to life

Have the months of confinement and telecommuting had the skin of the formal suit? ” He will come back, but it will take time! Businessmen stuck at home enjoyed a more relaxed locker room », Says the Englishman Paul smith. In his spring-summer 2022 collection, the Briton highlights lighter, more flexible suits, and especially worn with small light knit sweaters.

A less borrowed allure also present at Jil Sander. The duo Luke and Lucie Meyer explains in the note of intent of their collection that the costume is now worn for pleasure, lightness and autonomy of movement being at the heart of their thinking. In faded cotton or linen, their suits are worn too big, with sneakers or necklaces, for a unique look.

Jil Sander.

In Dries van Noten, the suit takes on nonchalant accents, whether the formal jacket is worn with a track bottom or wide trousers in a camouflage print. The creator of Antwerp, in a decidedly playful mood, has turned his collection to a smartphone all over the Belgian city.

Dries van Noten.
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In Y / Project, Glenn Martens has fun with the codes of this flagship piece of the male wardrobe by daring a deconstructed version, in which the fabric sections seem removable. ” I like to question the wearability of the garment, play on the construction », He explains

Y / Project

Finally, at Lanvin, Bruno Sialelli plays on proportions. His costumes are either tightened at the waist by a set of cords, or else worn too large, like a child playing with his father’s clothes. The set has cheerful sportswear accents.

Lanvin.
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