At Totto, in Paris, “the baguettes head without thinking towards the tuna, a beautiful deep red, melting as you expect”

PAmong the scourges of current gastronomy, there are bad sushi restaurants. These Yokohama or Sakura that you enter knowing that the chances of eating well are even slimmer than the probability of finding a place on a metro train in Paris during the Olympics. Where the menu resembles a naval battle (B3, C8) more than a list of edible ingredients.

And where the eternal salmon, as bright as a Stabilo, fails in most preparations, sometimes coated with cheese or a cabbage leaf. Between these addresses, which dominate in number, and some excellent, overpriced traditional restaurants, it is not easy to find what you are looking for.

And that’s where Totto arrives. A discreet sign, an azure storefront that no inscription disturbs, in a quiet street at 12^e Parisian district, hidden between Square Trousseau and the Aligre market. The restaurant, specializing in raw fish, by Japanese chefs Terutaka Izumi and Nanyo Kurihashi opened at the end of 2022, in place of a coffee shop in keeping with the times, as evidenced by its bare brick walls which have not not changed. Today, only a small calligraphed curtain in the entrance indicates that the baristas have given way to the sushi masters.

An assortment that varies depending on the day

The lunch menu reflects the image of the room: no show off. Only rice and fish, in menus between 20 and 30 euros. Of course, there is that caramelized eel on vinegared rice that is always tempting, but, most of the time, we end up choosing the bento, which is more generous and because we never really know what we are going to find there: the assortment of sashimi (which can be combined with nigiri) varies depending on the day. After ordering, you can quell your impatience with a small salad of vinegared samphire and a pleasant miso soup that is not freeze-dried.

And when the bento arrives, let the party begin! The chopsticks move without thinking towards the tuna, a beautiful deep red, melting as you would expect. A real contrast with the firmness of the white and pink flesh of the pieces of amberjack placed next to it. Hop, the eye is attracted by the silvery streaks of a fish that looks like a sardine, but, no, the taste is too delicate, it’s horse mackerel.

We thought we would enjoy it, but it would be too stupid to let the piece of grilled eel which is waiting quietly in the corner cool. A little vinegared rice and we start again with the attack of the omelette triangle, supple and sweet. One thing led to another and the bento empties, until there is only a little wasabi left – even the ginger is gone.

For 3 euros more, we opt for a dessert, sesame ice cream or green tea. We eye the neighbors’ dried bonito tofu salad and tell ourselves we’ll have it another time, which will undoubtedly be in the near future. Because, if there is one restaurant that doesn’t mess with us, it’s Totto.