THE TASTE OF PARIS. This little one-star table, in the 11e arrondissement of Paris, is the perfect place to discover gourmet cuisine at low prices.
By Julien Rebucci
© DR
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Ihe head of Autumn, Nobuyuki Akishige, seems to endorse this maxim of Constantin Brancusi: “Simplicity is not a goal in art, but one arrives at simplicity in spite of oneself by approaching the real meaning of things. »
An anonymous street of 11e arrondissement, a discreet storefront and you enter Autumn, a table stamped with a badge in the famous Red Guide. Inside, a simple bar, a few tables in a tiny room and, at the back, a micro-kitchen where the chef and his team are busy.
This real sense of things, here of gastronomy, chef Akishige has been applying it to our national territory since 2006, the year he settled in France. He perfected his skills with Patrick Henriroux and Arnaud Donckele, before taking his ease, at the end of the 2010s, in this 11e district of a formidable requirement, where addresses come and go according to fashions and trends.
Affordable menu
Its simplicity as a standard, Akishige applies, since obtaining its star, to confirm to us that it is not enough to pay dearly to eat well. During the week, its lunch formula (starter, main course and dessert) is negotiated at 45 euros. Count 10 euros more for water, a glass of wine and coffee.
READ ALSOThe Villa9Trois restaurant, the beautiful star of MontreuilThe menu has fun playing with our senses, according to seasonal products. A mixture of the equinoxes. Fine white asparagus, a trio of shellfish (varnish, barnacle and cockle), fermented milk and Oscietra caviar; the indulgence of April morels accompanied by peas, candied shallots and a yellow wine reduction; powerful Bresse chicken topped with a rigorous supreme sauce; delicacy of mascarpone mousse, coffee jelly and mandarin sorbet.
Twenty seats at the most in the room, little show, a talented sommelier, whom we like to listen to as much as to taste his glasses. Definitely, we love Autumn just as much as Spring.
Autumn. 11, rue Richard-Lenoir, Paris 11e. From Wednesday to Sunday. 45 and 55 euros for the lunch menu (Wednesday to Friday), 85 euros for the “5-step discovery” menu, 125 euros for the “7-step discovery” menu.