Bangkok: Crazy with Happiness | BRIGITTE.de

Bangkok is far too good just for a stopover: The city full of contrasts and gold buddhas has recovered from its tough lockdowns – and Nikola Haaks let himself be carried away by the new spirit.

We land in Bangkok on schedule – but without luggage. The first thought: Shit! The second: Come on, there must be 100 worse places to arrive without a suitcase, we’ll just drive straight from the airport to the mall… Uh, moooment: we stand our way through the afternoon traffic to the mall for about three hours. Then a pair of underpants, a pair of T-shirts, buy a tripod for photographer Enver – and off to Chinatown, where we are expected to eat Peking duck. Precious!

And then to the hotel? Nope, we’re kinda too awake even though we’ve been up for 18 hours. We want the full Bang Bangkok right away, we can sleep at home! So we hit Chinatown’s streets, weaving through the wild smells and smoke of the street food stalls, lit by blaring neon signs, being overtaken by tuk-tuk taxis and intoxicated. In the end we end up in a cocktail bar that looks like in Berlin. One Night in Bangkok, Cheers!

Buddha at the fish

Psst, you want to buy a Bhudda? This is possible in Bangkok on (almost) every corner

© Enver Hirsch

The Thais treat their belief like a buffet: You take what you like. 95 percent are Buddhists, but before Buddhism came to the country, they relied on natural deities and spirits. This (super) belief is still alive and, coupled with the kitsch love of the Thais, sometimes takes on crazy forms. In Bangkok there are some colorful shrines and masses of Buddhas on every corner, also made of plastic. They are transported back and forth on vans or mopeds like furniture elsewhere. Such a Buddha – whether placed in front of the door or hung around the neck – is said to drive away bad luck. Bangkok’s most famous statue, the giant reclining Buddha, can be admired at Wat Pho Temple, a sprawling complex with many different temples. Incidentally, the site near the river is also home to the best Thai massage school in the country, and if you want a good (and cheap) treatment, you can book it right here!

The queen of the crab omelet

Enjoy

It tastes good on every corner!

© Enver Hirsch

If you want to eat at Jay Fay’s after 2 p.m., you should line up at 6 a.m. Sounds weird? It is. But it works. The 75-year-old chef, who runs her small street food restaurant in Bangkok’s old town (327 Maha Chai Road), was awarded a star by the Michelin Guide in 2017 for her crab omelette, and everyone has been going crazy ever since. We take three attempts alone. The fact is that when it is finally your turn, you are only assigned a number and an approximate time. However, if you are not there when you are called, your registration expires. At some point we eat our shrimp omelet on plastic chairs in front of green bathroom tiles. Was the stress worth it? I don’t know. But Jay Fay’s look is a real eye-catcher: Army T-shirt, wool hat and diving goggles to protect against flying sparks. Mrs. Crab Omelette cooks differently than the others, over an open fire instead of gas. Shouldn’t be too easy. The woman has her principles.

Everything in flux

phone

The promenade of the futuristic “Icon Mall”

© Enver Hirsch

yes the river It’s Bangkok’s lifeline, it’s called Chao Phraya. But to be honest: Murray Head was right when he sang about “Muddy Old River” in “One Night in Bangkok” – I’ve rarely seen a browner one. You really don’t want to fall in. It’s chic on the new promenade in front of the futuristic “Icon Mall”, but the Chao Phraya unfolds its real charm when you sail through its canals, the Khlongs, because then you can see a lot of the everyday life of the Thais on the backstage of the city. On Sunday we drive a bit out into the country, suddenly there is a pig on a dirt road, then there is a parking lot. There, on the banks of Khlong Lat May, is a huge floating market for local farmers. We let ourselves be pushed through the crowd between fried silkworms and fermented fish and watch the women selling their wares directly from the boat.

Is Khao San Road still alive?

Bangkok: Crazy with happiness

Nikola Haaks on the legendary Khao San Road

© Enver Hirsch

I belong to the “The Beach” generation. Do you remember? The legendary film starring Leonardo DiCaprio that ended badly on a deserted Thai island and began on Khao San Road? Before the film, Khao San was a popular backpacker street somewhere in Bangkok. After the film, she was a force of nature with crowds rolling through it every day—especially at night. They drank and partied until they dropped, snacked on grilled scorpions on a skewer and booked the next morning’s boat transfer to the islands. A few travel agencies and the grilled scorpions are still around today, but crowds? none. Strolling through Khao San and the nearby Ram Buttri at the blue hour is downright romantic. Nice little bars, a few shops, dim light. Tip: Take the #13 river boat to Phra Athit stop and start walking from there.

Our travel tips for Bangkok

Bangkok: Crazy with happiness

Morning mood in Lumphini Park Half of Bangkok meets here in the morning for Tai Chi or jogging

© Enver Hirsch

Hotels

Sala Rattanakosin. Chic boutique hotel in a bustling old town alley directly opposite Wat Pho Temple. The white and black rooms have river or temple views, both are great! Like the restaurant with a terrace on the water. Double room from 150 euros (39 Maha Rat Road, Tel. 02/622 13 88, salahospitality.com).

Phranakorn Nornlen. A little oasis with 31 colourful, individual rooms and a large garden in a residential area of ​​Banglamphoo area, about 20 minutes walk to Khao San Road. Double room from 30 euros (46 Krung Kasem Road, Tel. 02/628 81 88 90, phranakorn-nornlen.com).

Josh Hotel. Cool hostel style and cheap, with a cocktail bar, nice restaurant and small pool – all in the new hip district of Ari. DR/F from 27 euros (19/2 Ari 4 Fang Nua Alley, Tel. 02/102 49 99, joshhotel.com).

restaurants

Lek & Ruth. The “gosh” of Chinatown. Like everywhere else, you sit on plastic stools along the street, but the staff all wear red aprons! Grilled king prawns cost about 8 euros (Phadung Dao Road).

Krua Apsorn. Don’t let the plastic neon look irritate you, the best Thai food is served here! If you also see that mainly locals come to eat – e.g. B. for curries (10 euros) or “Miang Kham” (pepper leaf wraps, 4 euros; 169 Dinso Road, Tel. 80/550 03 10).

Salt. Chic shop in Ari: lots of glass, lots of wood, nice terrace. The cuisine is fusion: sushi, pizza, pasta and steaks. Main dishes from 12 euros (7 Phaholyothin Road, Tel. 98/742 49 89, saltbangkok.com).

Wallflowers. Cafe and bar in the middle of Chinatown, super nice greenhouse-meets-Berlin-Mitte-old-building style, and the selection of cakes is also impressive (31-33 Soi Nana, Tel. 90/993 86 53).

Experience

dinner cruise Dinner in style including a sundowner on a river boat. Departing from the pier behind the new Icon Siam complex, cruise the Chao Phraya for approximately 3 hours while a four-course meal is served. From 75 euros (banyantree.com/thailand/bangkok/dining/saffron-cruise).

boat instead of a taxi. If you want to get around quickly but still want to see a lot, take a river boat (hop-on hop-off boats, day ticket 4 euros, chaophrayatouristboat.com) or travels on the Saen-Saep Canal (tickets from 30 cents, transitbangkok.com/khlong_boats.html).

Bridget

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