Palm trees, pools and perspectives: Montenegro’s Adriatic coast is still considered an insider tip: travel to the Bay of Kotor
Montenegro is still one of the lesser-known holiday destinations. After my visit to the Montenegrin Adriatic coast, I cannot understand, with the best will in the world, why this is so. Montenegro is on the same latitude as Apulia, the climate is Mediterranean, the landscape is beautiful, the people are friendly, the food is delicious, the price-performance ratio is very good and you even pay in euros, although the country is not yet part of the EU is.
The Bay of Kotor stretches around 30 kilometers inland along the south-eastern Dalmatian-Montenegrin Adriatic coast. The steep mountain sides give the bay a fjord-like appearance. Just ten minutes after arriving at the airport in Tivat, a small resort on the bay, I stand in front of the Montenegro Regent. The resort hotel is located directly on a fashionable, small marina, in which several impressively large super yachts are moored.
Hotel on the Adriatic coast: “The architecture completely convinces me”
The architecture of the hotel completely convinced me. Wherever you are, you have a view out into the bay across the sea. This connection to the water is also reflected in the interior thanks to subtle nautical elements. Designer Tino Zervudachi from the London design office Mlinaric, Henry & Zervudachi was at work here, whose clients include Sir Evelyn de Rothschild, Mick Jagger and Princess Chantal of Greece. I really like the rooms: solid wood furniture, parquet floors, comfortable beds and spacious bathrooms with lots of marble.
Like in a painting
Everything in the outdoor facilities is also oriented towards the sea. Large frames in and around the pools reinforce the impression of nature as the only true work of art. The pool area extends over two levels. I feel like I’m in a painting. However, I miss one thing: I would like someone to come by the pool from time to time to offer drinks and other things. I know from other resort hotels that the service staff regularly runs through with a frozen yoghurt or a fruit skewer.
About the expert
Carsten K. Rath is a lecturer and management consultant on the topics of service and leadership excellence. He used to manage luxury hotels like the Adlon in Berlin. With his expertise as a former grand hotelier, he now travels to hotels all over the world and reports on his experiences on his platform, among other places www.travelgrand.ch. Rath finances the trips he reports on in this column himself and independently describes his personal impressions.
Overall, the service at the Regent is absolutely courteous and attentive. The 5-star hotel lives from its cordial staff, from the great gastronomy and of course the harbor with its impressive yachts. There’s life here, I like that. From the spa to high-end shops to active and cultural offers, there is simply everything. And everything in excellent quality. I find it very interesting that during the Second World War and under Tito, submarines were built here in the bay and hidden in special coastal bunkers. Right next to the Regent you can marvel at two of these submarines in front of the Naval Heritage Collection.
The FOCUS cost info: a night in the Montenegro Regent including breakfast costs from around 175 euros.
The best Thai massage outside of Thailand
For the afternoon I have planned a motor boat tour through the bay. But before that I visit the spa, where I signed up for a Thai massage. Surprise: The best Thai massage outside of Thailand is obviously here in Montenegro, in the Regent with masseuse Jenny. From where I know this? Having lived in Thailand for a number of years, I know pretty well what a real Thai massage feels like. Jenny therefore gets an extra big compliment from me.
My subsequent boat trip takes me to the end of the last basin of the bay, to the city of the same name, Kotor. Before that, however, I pass the monastery island of St. George, Sveti Đorđe, and the island of Gospa od Škrpjela, Maria vom Felsen. The latter is an artificial island built on sunken ships loaded with stones. Incidentally, both islands and the entire bay have been UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1979. No wonder. This landscape can really take your breath away.
Quality instead of mass tourism
Be it in the hotels or restaurants, what strikes me is the pride of the Montenegrins. A pride without any arrogance. The people here want their country to develop, especially in tourism. But it should be different than in neighboring countries, no cheap mass tourism, it should be high quality. I think they are well on their way there.
This is also reflected in the second hotel I visit here, Hotel One & Only Portonovi. It’s on the western shore of the bay, across from the Regent. 500 employees and three restaurants work in 132 extraordinarily luxurious rooms, 21 pools and a sandy beach. Pretty impressive. The One & Only is a true gem on Europe’s new Riviera. No wonder it’s also popular with the rich and famous, such as German pop singer Helene Fischer, who is actually lying on the beach next to me. Here everything is pure luxury. I feel like in 1001 nights. Thick marble slabs, heavy leather armchairs, real wood furniture, discreet indirect light. Everything is big, elegant and every detail seems thoughtful. A hotel at its finest.
What is missing: The “emotional connection with the guest”
So much luxury is also noticeable among the employees. They are reserved, distinguished, and servile. I don’t mean that in a negative way, but in the most professional of all senses. It fits perfectly with the ultra luxurious ambience. Nevertheless, as perfect as the service is, I personally lack a bit of the connection to the guest, i.e. what is called “emotional networking with the guest” in Quality Assurance.
I am enthusiastic about the Tapasake Club, one of the three restaurants. It’s right on the water. In the afternoon it’s more of a party location with good music and is reminiscent of bars on Ibiza. In the evenings, the finest Japanese-Peruvian food is served here. However, I find the many cats running around the entire complex, including in the restaurants, completely inappropriate. How uncomfortable that must be for people with a cat allergy.
The FOCUS cost info: a night in the One & Only Portonovi including breakfast costs from around 170 euros.
A modern form of detox and anti-aging treatment is offered in the spa. Chenot’s medical health concept comes from Switzerland. It combines individual, tailor-made programs with innovative treatments – all based on the latest scientific findings. I find that very interesting.
BUNTE insider tips Bay of Kotor, Montenegro:
Restaurant: Take the motorboat to the Fisherman’s Village restaurant. It is beautifully situated on the coast and the fish served here is fantastic. The menu has 2-star quality for me and the Serbian rosé also tastes delicious. A restaurant that doesn’t need to fear comparison with the best in Saint-Tropez, Miami Beach or Porto Cervo.
Excursion: Rent a boat and cruise the bay, preferably to the end of the fjord. Here is the town of Kotor, whose medieval old town is surrounded by an impressive city wall.
Story: During the times of the Warsaw Pact, when Montenegro was still part of Yugoslavia, numerous submarine bunkers were blown up in the rocky coast on the Adriatic coast. Today they are no longer used and can be visited. You can even dive into some. Two of the submarines built there are on display in front of the Naval Heritage Collection at the port in Tivat. Fascinating story to touch.
See in the video:
Stand owner tells the most touching Wiesn story
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