Croatian Adriatic: Rent a yacht and have a cheap holiday

Just sat on the plane. And less than two hours later, the world is rocked by a slight swell. We dock in Bol on the island of Brač off Split, within sight of the famous pebble beach Zlatni Rat, the “Golden Horn”. But even here in the harbor basin, the crystal-clear water is iridescent in various shades of turquoise. The seabed seems close enough to touch. Schools of small, silvery fish twinkle in the sunlight. The sweet, resinous smell of the macchia wafts across from the island. Juniper, broom, sage saturate the warm air with their Mediterranean aroma. A pleasant sleepiness creeps out of the nearby pine forest and brings any rush and nervousness to a halt. Enchanted by the quiet magic of this bay, I gaze in amazement at the cloudless sky. And think to myself: I did everything right!

Yes, I’ll admit it: I would like to have my own yacht and it could be a little bigger. One like the Eclipse, the snow-white floating second or third home of the Russian oligarch Roman Abramovich. Launched in 2009, 162.5 meters long, cost 800 million euros. I look up www.marinetraffic.com sometimes where it is or where it is on the way. This also works on the website with fishing boats and barges, but is much less fun. It was also more exciting with the Eclipse: It is currently bobbing in the Turkish port of Bodrum to avoid the Russia sanctions of Great Britain and the EU.

800 million, that’s a tad too expensive, of course. On the other hand: giant cruise ships for several thousand passengers are not my thing at all. And I don’t like sailing yachts because you always hit your head somewhere and everything is really cramped. In addition, sailing is very rare. Most of the time the engine chugs because the wind blows from the wrong direction or not at all, or the skippers wet their pants without the protection of the many islands of the Dalmatian coast when the notorious downwind Bora hisses.

Very satisfied on board the Ohana

And that’s why I’m very, very happy on board the Ohana right now. Staying here is very close to my dream of owning and maintaining the yacht. The ohana is 49 meters long and accommodates up to 28 guests who are looked after by eight crew members. The 14 cabins are modernly furnished, the bathrooms are generously sized, which is rare on ships and can spoil the mood, especially for tall people like me. My friends and I have two decks available next to the dining room. With good weather we can eat outside on the steerage where there is also a well stocked bar which is conveniently located. At the top of the 160 square meter sun deck there are sun loungers and a heated jacuzzi. The “toys” for fun on the sea are also parked there: jet skis, SUPs, sea kayaks and inflatable gadgets; of course also the dinghy for shore excursions and water skiing.

A friend gave me the idea of ​​renting a yacht for a week with like-minded people – and I met the experts from “googles“ networked. The company, which was founded by the Slovenian couple Alenka and Mitja Mirtič more than 15 years ago, is not called that for nothing: A “gulet” is a pot-bellied, mostly two-masted motor sailer made of wood, which is common on the Turkish coast but also in Greece and on the Adriatic along the Croatian coast: from Kvarner Bay in the north to Dubrovnik in the south. Nobody knows exactly how many gulets are around here, and there are countless larger boats. In total there are around 4,800 ships that are rented out. For laypeople, this is a very confusing market. It is difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff. And that’s exactly what “Goolets” specializes in. The charter company regularly monitors and inspects more than 500 gulets and yachts in eleven different charter areas. Which are available? Are quality and price right? Do they match customer requirements?

Hit list of the best yachts

For those with more money to spend, the Mirtičs have also compiled a hit list of the best yachts. One of her treasures is the elegantly designed Freedom, which seats 22 sea addicts. In addition to the facilities that the Ohana also scores with, there is a cinema room, a small gym, a pool, a sauna, a massage room and a beauty salon. Well, with weekly rates from €100,000 upwards in the low season, even if you divide the cost by 22, it’s not a bargain. There are also various extra editions. “Goolets” can also help here: Which menu and drinks package suits the group? Focus on fish and seafood, or do you prefer vegetarian? All drinks included, or billing at the end of the trip?

The yacht charterer acts as a kind of concierge service: Upon request, reservations can be made in the best restaurants in Dalmatia, such as Gariful on the island of Hvar. VIPs such as Jon Bon Jovi, Beyoncé, Michael Jordan and Bernie Ecclestone have dined in the jet-set restaurant, which never wanted a Michelin star but eventually got it. The organization of shore excursions is also part of the Goolets portfolio. At the end, guests receive a detailed itinerary. And the crew is informed accordingly, knows intolerances and preferences of their passengers, even before the anchors are lifted.

We too are well looked after by the Ohana team. When we leave Bol and set course for Hvar, we see the shiny backs of a school of dolphins less than 20 meters from us. We already feel a bit like we’re in the Becks ad (Sail away!), although we don’t sail at all: The nice thing about it: The hotel travels with you, bags don’t have to be repacked all the time. We get used to the rhythm of island hopping surprisingly quickly. This extremely comfortable and wonderfully slow form of travel has a long tradition in the Croatian Adriatic. Brač, Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Lastovo – each of these islands has its own character and enchants with picturesque harbor towns and quaint mountain villages.

We taste the finest oil in an olive grove, of course 100% organic, and wash it down with our own herbal liqueur. We marvel at the dry stone walls that have been painstakingly built up by hand. We smile at the men’s combos in the big Bavaria yachts, who rarely dare to hoist the sails and who would do well with a bit of exercise. We let ourselves be taken to places with the potential to become insider tips, such as the bay of Stiniva on Vis, or the picturesque town of Komiža on Brač. We take a Games of Thrones tour to the filming locations of the series, sail into the Blue Cave of Bisevo and explore farming villages in the hinterland of the Makarska Riviera on e-bikes. At a wine tasting, we will be poured the best drops of Dalmatia.

You can also show up for breakfast in your pajamas

When we arrive in Hvar, the mild evening light creates a magical atmosphere. Seductive scents are already wafting towards us from the galley. But before dinner there is enough time for a guided tour of the old town that once belonged to Venice. When we return to the marina, which is packed with motor boats, sailing ships and catamarans, we sit on the harbor wall before boarding. While the squeaky clean sailing yachts rock side by side in the now dark harbor water and the masts dance like pick-up sticks high above our heads, tanned skippers bring food in handcarts, bunker drinks, load luggage. Excited teenagers stroll past in groups, presenting this year’s beach fashion and striking an Instagram pose.

Apropos: For a private yacht adventure there is no dress code like on a cruise ship. You can also show up for breakfast in your pajamas. And yet: such an elegantly designed yacht also has its pride. And that’s why there’s no harm in dressing appropriately. Perhaps you would like to stop by the tailor Jürgen Reschop from KingsHouse in Munich before you set sail. And have someone explain what “smart casual” means for a yacht: a casually fitting jacket with a white or light blue button-down shirt underneath. Even in strong winds, the buttons hold the collar in place and it doesn’t flap silly around. If it gets cooler in the evening, you pull over a knitted cashmere sweater. You can also wear it directly on the skin without a t-shirt. In addition, chinos or light-colored jeans, sneakers with rubber soles. However, you should take them off on board. The tradition dates back to when models like John Lobb’s still had iron soles. But even pebbles hurt an expensive wooden floor. Therefore, it is better to take off your shoes on board.

And the ladies? Wear whatever you feel like. Anyone who manages to pose on the railing as romantically as Kate Winslet in “Titanic” can do just about anything. And best of all: there are guaranteed no icebergs in the Adriatic!

travel info

Costs: To calculate the final price, the following rule applies: basic charter price plus 30 percent for all additional costs (food, drinks, port fees, fuel, taxes, national park entry, tips, etc.). Example: A yacht costs 80,000 euros basic price. Including ancillary costs, that’s 104,000 euros. For a group of 22, that’s 4,700 euros per person. The cheapest options start at 2,500 to 3,000 euros per week. Around 300 euros per person are to be expected for the journey (flights from German airports).

The Ohana will be completely overhauled and rebuilt in the winter half of 2022/23. After the “face lift” she can be chartered again from spring 2023.