It is a horde of wild teenagers who welcome the guests during each parade of this fashion week which is held in Paris until October 5th. Gathered around the shows, smartphone in hand, they beg for their idols, expected in the front rows. At Dior, it’s Jisoo, singer of the Korean K-pop group Blackpink, who stirs up passions. At Saint Laurent, it is his colleague from the same group, Rosé, while at Raf Simons, the lucky one is called Mark Tuan, member of the GOT7 group, also Korean. Stars from Asia who make these young adolescents fantasize, like a desire for elsewhere that the designers seem to share with their spring-summer 2022 collections.
Screwed to his studio in Antwerp, Dries Van Noten wanted to escape… to India, by interposed video. How could the Belgian, one of the best colorists in the sector, not have wanted to dive into the Holi festival, this Hindu festival of colors whose participants are covered with powdery colored pigments at the arrival of spring? “I saw in it a symbol of the desire to be together, to find each other, like a new beginning”, he relates in this filmed parade.
He takes part in this celebration with contagious frivolity, seizing all imaginable shades, sewing techniques in addition: denim with rhinestones and dresses with balloon sleeves, disturbing fireworks prints, hallucinatory fuchsia and apple coat, cascade of silk muslin and games of transparency …
For her first show with an audience since her appointment to Chloé in December 2020, Uruguayan Gabriela Hearst offered herself the sunny Seine quays as a backdrop. Very attached to eco-responsibility, the designer has enlisted the services of various associations around the world. The soles of the sandals are created by Ocean Sole, a Kenyan association collecting flip-flops found on the beaches to recycle them. Some pieces in the collection have been embroidered by artisans from Akanjo, a member association of the World Fair Trade Organization, in Madagascar.
On the podium, long linen dresses are beaded with charms or shells, summer costumes are fashioned in a bright yellow or soft peach, a fringed poncho accompanies supple pants … A wardrobe that breathes elsewhere and bohemian, hot sand and sea spray.
The nuances of a sunset
Isabel Marant, who has just announced the appointment of her long-time collaborator, Kim Bekker, as co-creative director, presented her collection for next summer in the heart of the Palais-Royal garden, as usual. “ I wanted a beach locker room, with no specific location in mind. These are the beaches around the world! I was inspired by color, and in particular the photos of Hans Feurer, a Swiss photographer from the 1990s, who took these pictures of very healthy and sporty. I wanted to have a lot of skin, with beach clothes, like a girl who goes from the city to the beach or from the beach to the city ”, details the designer behind the scenes.
The swimsuits are worn with short sweatshirts or very light parachute silk parkas, the prints are Japanese-inspired or recall the pop graffiti of the 1980s, overalls are associated with a blouse in English embroidery … The palette of colors, evoking the nuances of a sunset in the middle of summer, galvanizes the whole.
Great air also for Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, the Coperni duo, married to the city, who presented their collection in the middle of a recreated hemp field in the heart of a large building in the north of Paris. Called “Spring Summer 2033”, the collection puts nature at the center of its focus. “ It is a message of optimism. We allowed ourselves to make color, light materials, prints… It’s high summer, at the beach, with a very festive side. “
The suits are less formal and more unstructured, the jackets have comforting volumes, the prints evoke pop culture – the smiley, the yin and the yang, Beavis and Butt-Head… -, the slit skirts tied at the waist are covered with plant motifs, the swimsuits have a psychedelic print, electric green tops draped directly against the skin just hide the chest. As for accessories, an origami bag is inspired by the corolla visual of the “Photos” application in iPhones, while others, fashioned in pearly white leather, take an elongated shape as if they had melted in the sun. A refreshing hot shot.
It was at her home in Copenhagen that the Danish Cecilie Bahnsen designed her puffy dresses, “With my young son, who helped me draw the flowers that I had reproduced and then cut out of the silk”, she tells with tenderness, welcoming in the Galerie des Filles du Calvaire, in the center of Paris. Presented on static mannequins on the ground floor, his creations take on a whole new dimension when climbing the stairs: we contemplate them captured in the streets of Tokyo by photographer Takashi Homma. Proof that travel and discussion always enrich work.
Fibers recovered from unsold items
“Many members of my family live in the suburbs of Tel Aviv and, because of the pandemic, it has been two and a half years since I could see them, being unable to move around., breathes the French Benjamin Benmoyal, 30 years old. Otherwise, I thought that a collection could bring me closer to them, so I immersed myself in my Moroccan and Egyptian origins. ” From family photos and drawings by illustrators and photographs of Berber tribes taken in the 1930s, he took the collection to loose tunics and striped sets, made from fibers recovered from unsold items from major Parisian houses. and highlighted in a vivid video shot in Tenerife.
However, it is not necessary to go far to escape. At Courrèges, it is in the heart of the Bois de Vincennes that Nicolas Di Felice unrolled his new score. A place known for its underground parties, where the 38-year-old designer has his habits. It presents a cloakroom articulated around the clothes of festival-goers. Vinyl rain capes with geometric shapes, parkas and bombers in silk satin with accentuated volumes, small trapeze dresses with patch pockets, low-waisted pants with flared legs … The thigh-high boots lengthen the leg without ever falling into the vulgar, the color palette sober and efficient – black, white, blue… – affirms the modernity of the whole. The sixties spirit of Courrèges is very present, with the desires and codes of our time.
When it comes to travel, however, no one ventures as far as Rick Owens. After several seasons filming his parades in Venice, he is back on his favorite forecourt of the Palais de Tokyo. And what a reunion! It is necessary to see, while machines fog the fountains and the public by expelling a thick white smoke, that black mages posted on the roofs throw jasmine leaves in the void, stroll the women whom it dresses.
They move forward, half-conqueror, half-marshmallow hearts, marked shoulders and a gauze cape, wedge thigh-high boots of a domineering mistress and upside-down stitches delicate like cobwebs, “sci-fi” glasses and dresses with flowing pleats. la Madeleine Vionnet… Severe and sensitive. Like Michèle Lamy, the wife of Rick Owens, icon of fashion insiders, who opens the show. Following him, the heroines of the American do not embark neither for an indie festival abroad nor for a luxurious cruise to the end of the world, but seem to be ready for Mars or Venus, in search of a refuge of beauty. as distant (and most mysterious) as possible.