The typical vegetarian is more of a vegetarian. According to a survey of 15,000 people by IFOP for FranceAgriMer in 2020, the vast majority of French people who do not consume meat are women (67%), as are flexitarians, who try to reduce their consumption of meat. meat (65%). From this statistical observation, we can quickly slip into a fairly widespread stereotype: chefs would prefer vegetables to very rare steaks.
“ We are constantly brought back to vegetable cuisine, with small flowers, tanginess… whereas that of men would be more technical, grinds chef Manon Fleury. But I challenge anyone to recognize the gender of a starred blind cook! » In her Parisian residence at the Chalet des Îles Daumesnil, which ended in April, the cook certainly offered a celebration of vegetables and fruits, but also demonstrated great sophistication. Example, these white asparagus combined with red kiwi, toned with a quince flower condiment, truffled with sunflower seeds. And if, for the time being, out of ecological awareness, she no longer works with meat, she does not refrain from returning to it.
As for the resident who succeeds her at the Chalet des Îles, from June 17 until the end of September, the Lyonnaise Marie-Victorine Manoa, she deviates even more from the clichés by announcing bestial festivities: homemade sausage and mashed potatoes, snails with parsley and terrines galore (pressed chicken with tarragon, beef cheek terrine, rillettes of rabbit…).
A treat rather connoted testosterone
“Recently, a client said to me: ‘I booked with you because I wanted a woman’s kitchen'”says Rebecca Beaufour, chef at Dante, one of the very best bistro addresses in Paris. To me, that means nothing! Alain Passard, with whom I learned a lot, was able to concentrate very well on plants. And a woman can offer a cuisine that is not particularly “delicate”. Besides, my tastes tend to lead me towards spiciness, bird peppers, Espelette pepper, which I add even to my potato ravioli. » At home, it’s the flame-cooked Breton lobster that amazes. The pigeon, also flambéed with cognac, is stuffed with foie gras and offal. A treat rather connoted testosterone.
Charlotte Crousillat, behind the counter of Carlotta With, her vast restaurant-grocery store in the Vauban district, in Marseille, does not want “gender” his kitchen. “Woman, man… I believe that the concern of the chefs is above all that their customers are happy, she observes. I cook mainly vegetarian, but it’s not indicated anywhere on my restaurant. I don’t want bigotry. » In her voluminous salads, already stuffed with kale, candied spring onions and a string of raw vegetables, she reintroduces a little chicken on demand so that no customer feels lost.
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