El Hierro: The Canarian Pearl

The small Canary Island of El Hierro lacks everything you need for mass tourism: sandy beaches, all-inclusive hotels and direct flights. This is very lucky.

by Stefan Schmitz

The waves crash wildly and loudly against the walls of the "Punta Grande" from three sides. Up on the balcony of the tiny hotel stands Christoph Baader, the Swiss and his wife Anita can't get enough of the spectacle. From the demonstration of the balance of power on this planet that seems to be in human hands elsewhere. On El Hierro, the Canary Island, which is so different from the others, you can see what the real situation is like. "You feel very small," says the former teacher. Both love the island, they keep coming back here.

Simple instead of sophisticated

Anyone who drives southwest from "Punta Grande" understands what Christoph's wife Anita means when she speaks of the "closeness of the divine". The road leads under high cliffs, with yellow no-stopping strips on the edge. The protective fences next to the asphalt are dented from fallen rocks. Then a lava desert, Martian landscape – and at some point further up the first juniper tree, the crown of which was pushed down by the wind. "An hour in such a tree," says Anita, "and everything is back to normal, all problems forgotten." Moss grows on the gnarled wood that seems to be making faces.

Blown by the wind
The juniper tree only apparently surrenders to the forces of nature. It is known for its resilience and the symbol of El Hierro.

© CarlosMateo / Shutterstock

The cloud forest is even higher up, dark and ghostly, and swaths pull up the slope as if the sea was burning below. What's this? The 21st Century? Visitors from the north get the feeling that they have not only left their home geographically, but have also fallen out of time. Hikers move like in an open-air museum, always worried about breaking something. The whole island is criss-crossed by paths in which barreness and abundance, wind and sun, stone desert and fresh green alternate.

El Hierro is particularly euphoric for stressed-out city dwellers. This is also due to the magic that arises when nobody locks their house or car, because the crime is as unknown here as the permafrost. And when no one can cross the street without having a chat. "In Tenerife, strangers are numbers, here they are people," says Miguel Torres, who runs the "Punta Grande", which was once listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest hotel in the world.

In Tenerife the strangers are numbers, here they are people

There are no big hotels, neither are there any top restaurants. "Everything is a little hand-knitted," says Christoph Baader. Tourists like the Baaders don't mind, on the contrary. Like most of those who undertake the laborious journey from Tenerife by ferry or propeller plane, they are looking for the simple rather than the refined, contemplation instead of the hustle and bustle.

People stick together on El Hierro

Officially, the almost 270 square kilometer island has around 11,000 residents, but only two thirds of them live here permanently. Subsidies from Brussels and Madrid make it possible for the forces of the market, as opposed to those of nature, to be carefully tamed. Well-tended streets still lead through the most remote areas. The oversized pier of Puerto de la Estaca and the airport only come alive a few times a day when a ship or plane comes. But all help cannot make up for the fact that El Hierro does not have enough sources of income of its own.

Eduardo Pulido, the star of the regional television program, complains: "There are no jobs for young people, almost all of my friends have moved away." His best buddy stayed, he now works as his cameraman. Self-help, so to speak. Eduardo, a fit man in his late thirties, is hanging upside down on the ropes in the public gym in Valverde, next to him is Erse Reboso, his personal trainer, with his feet on the ground. Erse considers the fact that entry is free to be the downside of social control in island society. "They take care of you and they watch you," he says. When he goes swimming naked in the morning, his mother is approached at noon in the supermarket.

El Hierro: "La Maceta" natural swimming pool

Thundering surf
The natural bath "La Maceta" was built from boulders and protects children from the sea, which always seems wilder here than elsewhere.

© acongar / Shutterstock

A friend of Erse's had a small shop. After a parliamentary election, he asked her who she voted for. "She said that no one in her family would vote or talk about politics. They were afraid that those who think differently would no longer go shopping with them." Even the now ubiquitous Internet seems to be promoting old structures and rules rather than driving society apart. Once, when a tourist lost his wallet, Erse says, everyone shared it on Facebook. "It was back two hours later."

The beauty of the island should be preserved

Wind turbines turn on the mountain next to the sports center, and the energy is used to pump seawater into storage tanks high up so that turbines can be driven when there is no wind. The dream of completely covering the electricity demand in this way has not yet come true. There were even plans to make the island a shining example of the energy industry. Wind, water, plus electric cars. Everything without emissions and wonderfully pure. Visionaries saw El Hierro on the direct path from the past to the future.

El Hierro: Highlands of El Hierro

Force of nature
The highlands of El Hierro. Cut off from the mainland's power grids, the island produces most of its electricity itself with the abundant wind power.

© Rafal Michal Gadomski / Shutterstock

But for the time being, more practical solutions are required. Ways to keep the beauty of the island and still make money. Even Eduardo, the TV man, doesn't want tourism like on the neighboring islands. It must go slowly and organically. Pineapple plantations are considered future projects. All-inclusive, let the others do that. "We don't have that crap," says Erse. He is happy that El Hierro does not have any serious sandy beaches that attract crowds of tourists with a great thirst for beer and skin sensitive to the sun.

Diving is booming in the very south of the island, but otherwise much is as it always was.

Miguel from "Punta Grande", who will soon be 65, wants to retire in Gran Canaria so that an intensive care unit is nearby in case his moody heart fails. Paradise only exists here for part-time users from abroad. When they come here forever like the yoga teacher Aminata, whose real name is Gerda, comes from Germany and has been here for over 30 years, then they learn that life in another time also has less bright sides. Their four daughters, all grown up, left the island in search of the 21st century. You keep coming back to visit. Like most Hierrenos who are scattered around the world or at least over the Canaries. Because El Hierro remains a place of longing for those who have turned away.

The travel tips for El Hierro

Covid 19: Shops, restaurants, bars are open normally, the number of infections is much lower than on the Spanish mainland (hallokanarischeinseln.com). Fill out the health form before departure.

Experience

The forests are so old and varied that you immediately forget everyday life in them. Some trees look as if they could whip at any moment, like in a Harry Potter film.

Hike. The main attraction on El Hierro. We particularly recommend the Camino de la Virgen, which leads 28 kilometers through the interior to Valverde: uphill and downhill, through juniper, pine and laurel forests.

Diving. In La Restinga a number of companies offer diving holidays, they also help with the organization of travel and accommodation; for example the Arrecifal Centro de Buceo, Calle la Orchilla 30, arrecifal.com

To bathe. Go, for example, on the pebble beaches of the kilometer-long Las Playas bay in the east. The small sandy beach Playa de Timijiraque near the Puerto de la Estaca is easier to reach. The HI-30 road leads to both beaches.

Guinea Museum Village. Here you can visit a historical settlement that was inhabited until a few decades ago. Giant lizards, which were once native here, are kept next door. La Frontera, Calle General las Puntas.

Caves. Two Germans offer tours in La Frontera. Heidrun and Jörg also have a bike rental shop; you can meet them at the local market on Sundays. hoehlenelhierro.de

Spend the night on El Hierro

Parador de El Hierro. In front it goes to the beach, in the back steeply into the mountains. Secluded hotel with pool. DR / B from approx. 95 euros, paradores.es

Casa Rural El Hondillo. Nice house for up to five people near Valverde. Great view from the terrace over mountains and sea. From approx. 65 euros / day, Tel. 0034-22-55 08 22

Hotel Punta Grande. The small, beautiful accommodation is a real sight, around which the sea rages. DZ / F from approx. 300 euros, Tel. 0034-611 28 59 38

Eating and drinking on El Hierro

La Higuera de la Abuela. Charming restaurant in the interior of the island, also serves local specialties and a red wine from the area. Echedo, Calle Tajanisaba 10.

Restaurante El Refugio. Fish dominates the menu of the restaurant in the very south of the island. It is just a few steps to the port. La Restinga, La Lapa 2.

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BRIGITTE WOMAN 01/2021