Portrait“The golden drops of the olive tree” (4/6). Like wine specialists, Emmanuelle Dechelette masters the art of detecting the subtleties and organoleptic properties of each variety of oil. A profession in tune with the times, which follows the fashion around Mediterranean nectar.
A Mediterranean breeze comes along the Seine on this May day. Le Cordon Bleu, a prestigious network of schools devoted to French culinary techniques, welcomes in its Parisian headquarters, a few steps from the Eiffel Tower, the awards ceremony for the best olive oils to the winners of the competition. Olio Nuovo Days. Silver mane evoking the back of the foliage of olive trees, dress and elegant manners, Emmanuelle Dechelette presents a trophy to the Ambassador of Slovenia.
“A panel of experts rewarded the Slovenian Vanja after noting 43 oils! “, welcomes its founder, also a sommelier in olive oil. A profession in tune with the times: healthy, tasty, driven by the fashion for plants and the recommendations of doctors, Mediterranean nectar seduces French haute cuisine. “Nice ardence on the first palate, artichoke and green tomato on the second palate. The winning oil has character, while being particularly velvety “, appreciates Eric Briffard, 59, executive chef of Le Cordon bleu school.
Since he got acquainted with ” Emmanuelle “, the Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1994 learned, he says, “To oxygenate olive oil, as we do with wine, by squirting it on the taste buds”. When she is not advising great chefs or producers, Emmanuelle Dechelette travels the world to discover the most prestigious oils and sits on the juries of international competitions.
“It is perhaps more original to taste an olive oil from the Baux de Provence or Tuscany valley than a burgundy or a barolo”, assures the one who masters the art of detecting all the subtleties as well as the smallest defects of each variety. “The Spanish arbequina is relatively sweet, with hints of almonds. The French picholine is typically fiery, with aromas of tomato and plum. However, depending on the land, the climate, the know-how, their aromas and their taste will be more or less marked. “
Learned vocabulary
Emmanuelle Dechelette had a vocation late, after a fairly eclectic career. Former promoter of collector cars at Audi, press attaché for fashion designers Marithé and François Girbaud, in charge of Planet Hollywood events, the 50-year-old met her true passion during a trip to Italy. A revelation. “As a child, I hated oil so much that my grandmother had to change the seasoning of her salad. But in August 2014, I tasted the oil from a small producer in Tuscany, it was delicious. The olive grower assured me that it was nothing compared to the new oil, which tasted better because it was freshly harvested and extracted. He promised to send me some in the fall, as soon as it was ready, but he never kept his promise … And so much the better! “
You have 64.91% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.