Annette’s Tuscany travel tips
Getting there & getting around
The Costa degli Etruschi lies between Livorno and Piombino. The nearest airport is that of Pisa, which is served by many low-cost airlines (e.g. Ryanair from Berlin, from around 30 euros), but also Air Dolomiti from Frankfurt (from 57 euros). Alternatively, you can travel from Munich to Florence by night train (return ticket in a couchette car from 180 euros). You need a rental car on site.
Spend the night
Agriturismo Alberelli. The sea view: wonderful! In addition, there are smartly furnished apartments in the buildings of the former monastery, art events, yoga retreats and the relaxed spirit of the host couple Sara and Nicola. Minimum stay three nights, from 170 euros (Nibbiaia, Loc. Alberelli 63, Tel. 338/828 12 56, alberelli.com).
Pundarika. Green, silence and the scent of sage and lavender! Giambattista rents pretty apartments in his country house and has installed hammocks in the most beautiful spots where you can while away the days. Minimum stay three nights, from 207 euros (Ribarbella, Loc. Codarzingoli 18, Tel. 347/954 30 57, pundarika.it).
Agriturismo Costa Etrusca. A dead straight road leads up from the sea to this pretty complex. The rooms and apartments are spread across the site, chickens cackle, donkeys roam, there is a pool, restaurant and for breakfast under olive trees, home-made yoghurt and fresh fruit from the neighborhood. Wonderful! DR/F from 92 euros (San Vincenzo, Via del Castelluccio 127, Tel. 05 65/70 26 73, agriturismocotaetrusca.it).
Enjoy
La Perla del Mare. Many beach resorts have a restaurant, but it rarely tastes as good as in the “Perla”. Maybe it’s because Deborah Corsi always goes for a walk on the beach and a swim before she gets in front of the stove. There is the finest fish: turbot loin on spicy zabaglione (27 euros) or “Fritto Misto” with pineapple and apple ketchup (25 euros). Great terrace! (San Vincenzo, Via della Meloria 9, Tel. 05 65/70 21 13, laperladelmare.it).
Ostro. Cecina’s mile-long seafront promenade is lined with restaurants, but the fanciest is the coolly designed “Ostro,” which serves spaghetti with clams and fish roe and gnocchi with red mullet, 15 euros each (Cecina, Via Firenze 2, Tel. 05 68/42 41 47, palacelidosuites.com).
Oceano Mare. The coolest hangout on the whole coast is in the Parco di Remigliano. There’s ceviche (16 euros) and tuna balls (12 euros) under the thatched roof, along with good music, a view of the umbrella pines and the nice feeling of being in exactly the right place. You can also stay overnight, double room from 70 euros (San Vincenzo, Via della Principessa 124, Tel. 338/931 30 15, oceanomare.net).
Terra Antica. Enrica Bobbio and the cooperative “Terra Antica” sell what is produced in the region and also put together delicious plates (10 euros) – for example with chickpea flatbread, tender pork in olive oil, herb omelette and crispy foccaccia (Pastina, Via Caduti di via fanatic 1).
Experience
La Cerreta. Wellness in the thermal baths with indoor and outdoor pools (admission from 20 euros), forest walks, horseback riding and fine organic cuisine in the restaurant in the evening. Be sure to try the homemade salamis and the biodynamic rosé spumante from our own winery! (Sassetta, Via della Cerreta 7, Tel. 338/185 18 87, lacerretaterme.it).
Macchia della Magona. The sea is rarely seen from this 4,000-acre rolling forest and reserve. But you have 50 kilometers of marked trails for hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking. Beautiful: the approx. two-hour round trip from the entrance at Campo di Sasso (above Bibbona) to the former mill with a small waterfall.
Institute Lama Tzong Khapa. Even a flying visit to the large Buddhist study center is good for the soul. The meditation paths in the forest, the stupas, the large prayer scroll and the tea garden: everything is also accessible to visitors. There is a guided tour every Sunday afternoon. Courses from 30 euros (Pomaia, Via Poggiberna 15, iltk.it).
Archaeological Park of Baratti and Populonia. The Etruscans built their city of Populonia on the enchanting Bay of Baratti. In the open-air museum of the archeology park (admission 10 euros) you can wander around for hours, take a look at the tombs and dream of the past millennia. For the finale, definitely go up to Populonia Alta, the medieval part that is still inhabited today (parchivaldicornia.it).
Shopping
Deborah Cioli. Because of her gorgeous ceramic women, I gave up on my plan to stop buying objects. Visit by appointment, sculptures from 50 euros – and Deborah also gives courses (Piombino, Loc. Montemazzano 9, Tel. 340/256 02 47).
Liquori Emilio Borsi. In Castagneto Carducci, nostalgic charm wafts through every alley, and the small, 200-year-old Emilio Borsi liqueur factory has delicacies to offer. The “Liquore del Pastore” (Castagneto Carducci, Via Garibaldi 7, borsiliquori.it).
phone
The country code for Italy is 00 39. The 0 of the area code is always dialed from abroad. Numbers starting with a 3 belong to mobile phones – a 0 is not required here.
Had I known that…
It was only on this trip that I realized how much I was fascinated by the Etruscan culture. That’s why the Museo Etrusco Guarnacci in Volterra is on the agenda for the next time – I want to see the famous bronze figure “Ombra della Sera” (museivaldicecina.it).
More information is available at costadeglietruschi.eu
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