More and more fashion companies are taking a more sustainable direction – supposedly. Greenwashing is often behind it. That’s how you recognize it.
Excessive consumption of natural resources, water pollution, textile waste: the fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters and for around ten percent of global CO2 emissions responsible. It also has a high social cost: only an estimated two percent of employees in the global fashion industry receive it according to “Fashion Revolution” a wage sufficient to live on.
But fairly and sustainably produced clothing is often expensive. However, more and more fast fashion chains are also advertising sustainable materials, fair working conditions and recycling options. However, these promises are often misleading. But how do you know that? What characteristics really define sustainable, fair fashion and when do we talk about greenwashing?
What is greenwashing?
Sustainable, environmentally conscious, conscious – buzzwords that more and more fashion companies are advertising with. It is often difficult for consumers to tell whether they are really making a responsible purchase or are falling for so-called greenwashing. A 2023 study foundthat almost 60 percent of environmental claims made by 12 major brands in the UK and Europe were unsubstantiated or misleading.
The term greenwashing was coined by environmentalist Jay Westervelt in 1986 in an essay about the use of towels in hotels. In a figurative sense, it means putting on a green cloak and using PR methods whose aim is to portray a company to the public as more environmentally or responsible than it actually is. This is known from food companies, the car industry and also the fashion industry.
Numbers are more important than words
To find out whether a brand can back up its claims, you should research the numbers: For example, if a company advertises that certain items of clothing are made from organic cotton or recycled material, it may only be a small proportion of this material.
If a company is truly sustainable and transparent, you should find concrete information on the website. Often just a look at the label in the store is enough to determine whether the item of clothing is really what the company promises. For example, if it is made of more than two materials, it cannot be recycled.
Empty recycling promises
Many fast fashion companies advertise recycling options: customers can bring back an old item of clothing and receive a discount on a new one in return. The company promises to recycle what is given away. But companies often don’t reveal exactly what happens to the clothes they hand in.
Environmentalist Elizabeth Cline estimates that less than one percent of clothing is actually recycled. This is not so easy with most items of clothing: they are often made of mixed materials that are no longer usable and end up in landfill.
Don’t fall for keywords
Just because something is natural or vegan does not automatically mean it is environmentally friendly or sustainable. Materials such as viscose, bamboo or viscose are often cited by companies as “natural” alternatives, but they are usually not really environmentally friendly. Bamboo, for example, is often grown with pesticides and processed with chemicals; 150 million trees are felled every year to produce viscose worldwide.
The keyword “vegan” is also misleading. Because vegan leather and fur are often made from petroleum or polyurethane – bad for the planet. It would also be environmentally friendly: cruelty-free leather is available, for example, from paper, cork, tree bark and even pineapple.
These certificates and seals help
There are now more and more certificates and seals that provide information about ecological and social standards. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) recognizes clothing that consists of at least 90 percent natural fibers, of which at least 70 percent must be organically produced. In addition to ecological factors, fair pay and the ban on child labor are also taken into account.
Has even higher standards according to the consumer advice center the “IVN Best” seal: The fabric or knit of a textile must consist of 100 percent ecologically certified natural fibers. In addition, minimum wages are paid and the core labor standards of the International Labor Organization (LBO) are adhered to.
The Bluesign certificate pays attention to particularly environmentally friendly production; it is awarded by scientists and sustainability experts. Anyone who uses organically grown cotton under fair working conditions and produces it 100 percent fairly can wear the “Fair Trade Cotton” seal. The “Green Button” has also been available as a German textile seal since September 2019: To receive it, companies must take a total of 46 social and environmental criteria into account. Other seals include Fair Wear Foundation, Cotton made in Africa and OEKO-Tex Made in Green.
More tips for buying clothes
Fair and sustainable fashion often comes with a hefty price tag. A great alternative is second-hand fashion. This saves resources and extends the life cycle of garments. In addition, it is important to only buy clothes that you really like and will wear for a long time, instead of relying on trend pieces. Handling clothing consciously also means taking good care of it and making small repairs when possible. Clothes that you no longer wear should be sold and given away instead of leaving them unused in the closet.