Numerous fashion companies are taking a more sustainable direction – supposedly. Often there is greenwashing behind it, which is difficult to recognize.
The fashion industry is arguably one of the biggest culprits when it comes to environmental protection and sustainability. Fairly produced clothing is often expensive, but more and more fast fashion chains are also promoting sustainable fabrics, fair working conditions and recycling options. However, these promises are often misleading. But how do you know that? Which characteristics really make sustainable, fair fashion and when do we speak of greenwashing?
What is greenwashing?
Sustainable, environmentally conscious, conscious – keywords that more and more fashion companies are advertising with. It is often difficult for consumers to see whether they are really making a responsible purchase or falling for so-called greenwashing.
The term greenwashing was coined in 1986 by the environmentalist Jay Westervelt in an essay on the use of towels in hotels. In a figurative sense, it means putting on a green cloak and using PR methods, the aim of which is to present a company to the public in a more environmentally or responsible manner than it really is. You know that from food companies, the car industry and also the fashion industry.
Numbers are more important than words
In order to find out whether a brand can support its claims, one should research the numbers: For example, if a company advertises that certain items of clothing are made from organic cotton or recycled material, it may only be a small proportion of this Material.
If a company is really sustainable and transparent, you should find specific information on the website. Often a look at the label in the store is enough to determine whether the item of clothing really is what the company promises. For example, if it consists of more than two materials, it cannot be recycled.
Empty recycling promises
Many fast fashion companies advertise recycling options: customers can bring back an old item of clothing and receive a discount on a new one in return. The company promises to recycle waste. However, the companies often do not reveal what exactly happens to the clothes that are handed in.
Environmentalist Elizabeth Cline estimates that less than one percent of clothing is actually recycled. This is not so easy with most pieces of clothing: They often consist of mixed materials that are no longer usable and end up in the landfill.
Don't fall for keywords
Just because something is natural or vegan doesn't mean it's environmentally friendly or sustainable. Fabrics such as viscose, bamboo or rayon are often called "natural" alternatives by companies, but they are usually not really environmentally friendly. Bamboo, for example, is often grown with pesticides and processed with chemicals, 150 million trees are felled annually for the global production of viscose.
The keyword "vegan" is also misleading. Because vegan leather and fur are often made from petroleum or polyurethane – bad for the planet. It would also be environmentally friendly: there is animal-harmless leather made from paper, cork, tree bark and even pineapple.
These certificates and seals help
There are now more and more certificates and seals that provide information about ecological and social standards. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) distinguishes clothing that consists of at least 90 percent natural fibers, of which at least 70 percent must be organically produced. In addition to ecological factors, fair payment and the prohibition of child labor are also taken into account.
The Bluesign certificate pays attention to particularly environmentally friendly production; it is awarded by scientists and sustainability experts. The "Fair Trade Cotton" seal can be worn by anyone who uses organic cotton under fair working conditions and produces it 100 percent fairly. Since September 2019 there has also been the "Green Button" as a German textile seal: In order to receive it, companies have to consider a total of 46 social and environmental criteria.