fashion students aspire to renewal

That evening, the Fiasco Club met in its favorite bar at 3and district of Paris. Over a drink, the group talks casually about their projects, talks about the latest fashion news and shares their doubts. They are seven, they are 24 years old and are photographers, painters, stylists, embroiderers, 3D designers… They created this collective during their fashion and graphic design studies at the Duperré school, where they were already used to to collaborate. Together we feel stronger, we accumulate skills », they say. Graduated with a master’s degree during the pandemic, they present themselves as the cursed promo », the one that has to find its place in a labor market that offers only rare hiring opportunities. So, might as well take the lead and “create your own development model”.

At seven, they therefore founded the Fiasco Cluban experimental laboratory, without a leader or ego, which bets everything on horizontality”. A thinly veiled criticism of archaic system and monarchical » of the fashion industry, in which a star artistic director dominates, at the top of the pyramid. By founding their studio, they hope to preserve their creativity, which they fear will die out in business, trapped by the wage-earning machine. We have the impression that we have to wait years to be entrusted with interesting missions, we are not necessarily ready to sacrifice. With the collective, we work on projects with responsibilities that we could never have had in a big company.they summarize.

Very punk figures

They don’t make any money with this structure yet but hope drill » quickly. Others have done it before them, like the Gamut collective founded in 2018 by designers who graduated from La Cambre, the school of visual arts in Brussels. In the meantime, they work as freelancers – all are self-employed – accepting occasional assignments, without knowing what tomorrow will bring. A more or less constrained choice that allows them to have time to invest in the collective”.

Like more and more young graduates and fashion school students, integrating a big house, like those who parade this week for Paris fashion week, no longer really makes them dream. And even less a “fast fashion” brand. During our studies, we put on a pedestal very punk figures in the history of fashion… while encouraging us to fall into line. I don’t want to be absorbed by the industry, I prefer to defend my name, my identity and my culture”, emphasizes Marvin M’toumo, 27, who graduated in 2019 with a master’s degree in fashion and accessories from the Geneva University of Art and Design (HEAD).

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