Dior fashion show for the Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women’s Ready-to-Wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, February 27, 2024 (AFP / MIGUEL MEDINA)
First major show of Paris Fashion Week, Dior paid tribute on Tuesday to its “miss”, a creation of the sixties when “fashion left the workshop to conquer the world”, to the sound of “Je t’aime, moi no more”, from the Birkin/Gainsbourg tandem.
The first silhouette emerges in a beige and demure suit crossed out with the acronym “Miss Dior” as if screen-printed with a large brush.
Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg “come and go” between the ears of the public, gathered by the hundreds in an ephemeral cube in the Tuileries gardens, designed by Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni.
South Korean singer JISOO (c) upon her arrival at Fashion Week to attend the Dior fashion show, on February 27, 2024 in Paris (AFP / Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT)
In the front row, the South Korean singer JISOO, from Blackpink, who brought hundreds of fans to Place de la Concorde, the Spanish superstar Rosalía, the actresses Jennifer Lawrence and Natalie Portman.
On the stands, hundreds of customers and friends of the brand who came or were invited from all over the world.
All the mixture of bourgeoisie and rich and nouveau riche fantasy is available in the collection, from the gabardine to the little dress, via tweed, from the almost Geneviève de Fontenay hat to the more urban denim and the leopard which warms up this collection of winter 2024/2025.
Dior fashion show for the Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women’s Ready-to-Wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, February 27, 2024 (AFP / Miguel MEDINA)
The colors of the parade take up the palette of Marc Bohan, who died in September and who directed creation at Dior for a quarter of a century: white, orange, beige, gold.
The designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, at the head of the artistic creation of the women’s collections at Christian Dior since 2016, wanted to pay homage to this “Miss Dior”, a cultural and commercial shift made by the iconic post-war fashion house .
– “New Look”-
We are in 1967: “Monsieur Dior” has been dead for 10 years and the haute couture house ventures beyond the closed salons of Avenue Montaigne to launch into ready-to-wear, inaugurating the era of ” reproducibility” of the models, now always set with a Dior logo.
Dior fashion show for the Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women’s Ready-to-Wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, February 27, 2024 (AFP / Miguel MEDINA)
The line is called “Miss Dior” and a few months before May 68, she dared to create feminine clothes with psychedelic touches, short, daring, likely to inspire a new generation of independent women.
The “Miss” is none other than Christian Dior’s sister, Catherine, a resistance fighter returned from the Ravensbrück concentration camp whose little-known destiny is currently being brought to the screen in the series “New Look” on Apple TV.
This American production shot in English addresses not only the character of the fashion designer, played by Australian actor Ben Mendelsohn, but also the fate of his sister Catherine played by Maisie Williams (“Game of Thrones”).
Ben Mendelson told AFP on Tuesday that he loved this character “more than any other”, without having completely become a pure “fashionista” either. “I am always really struck by the strength of the looks and their enormous variety,” declared the star, leaving the show.
Dior fashion show for the Fall-Winter 2024/2025 Women’s Ready-to-Wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, February 27, 2024 (AFP / Miguel MEDINA)
The news of “Miss Dior” is also available on the beauty and perfumery side, the brand which belongs to LVMH having simultaneously revisited the “Miss Dior” perfume with a new composition signed by the nose Francis Kurkdjian.
On the commercial side, Dior is a catapult that nothing can stop. The house whose growth has tripled over the last seven years, particularly after the health crisis, is seeking to make a shift towards “normalized” sales, in the words of Bernard Arnault, who appointed his daughter Delphine Arnault, director of the house Christian Dior since February 2023.