Tired of the back of cod with white butter? Today, alternatives exist to make your mouth water. With the strong comeback of freshwater fish and thanks to the unbridled creativity of old and young cooks, seafood and river products are setting the plates on fire. The proof in our selection which adapts to all budgets.
On sea
It’s a crazy project. Take over a restaurant already shaken by the tide as the rising waters threaten… At sea, Alexandre Gauthier’s liner on the beach of Merlimont (Pas-de-Calais), will perhaps turn into a submarine. In the meantime, you can savor brasserie classics transcended by the mastery of a two-star chef, such as this top-flight fish-and-chips, more tender and less greasy than on the other side of the Channel (from 20 euros).
On the sea, boulevard Manche, 62155 Merlimont.
The Menilmontant Perch
Going to Alice Arnoux’s table gives the impression of plunging deliciously into the void. The chef, in residence until July 15 at the Perchoir Ménilmontant, dares almost everything: cockles taking the chill off on a Japanese flan, rolls of sea lettuce, whiting in a mandarin sauce… Special mention for her sidekick Margaux Baju, responsible for sweet, which concocts puff pastries with seaweed inspired by the galette des rois and roudoudous with trout eggs. Single menu at 85 euros.
THE Perch Menilmontant14, rue Crespin-du-Gast, 75011 Paris.
Cadets
This elegant restaurant in Nantes naturally increased its prices after winning a Michelin star. With its lunch in four sequences at 33 euros, it remains an unbeatable value for money. The opportunity above all to taste extremely masterful dishes with a touch of eccentricity to surprise the taste buds, such as this sea bream tartare, served with a seaweed mayonnaise.
Cadets15, rue des Hauts-Pavés, 44000 Nantes.
AM
At Alexandre Mazzia, the plates come tumbling down in waves of four, five or six bites, as small as they are memorable, where fish often plays the main role. Bottarga with caviar, smoked eel married with chocolate, aged scallops with bacon… In Marseille’s three-star restaurant, the technicality of the dishes never eclipses the emotion. Menu from 195 euros.
AM9, rue François-Rocca, 13008 Marseilles.
The Table next door
Created by Christophe Hay, this starry nugget nestled at the gates of Sologne is now run by a 27-year-old perfectionist: Loïs Bée. We find there the rigor of the master, prices a little more packed and above all the same passion for Loire fish, including catfish, which is savored smoked, with caviar lemon. Menu from 72 euros.
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