Five Lyon addresses with flavors from elsewhere

The capital of Gaul today has a particularly wide range of establishments. Are you more of a street food person? The Lyon Street Food Festival, which takes place from June 13 to 16 this year, should tickle you with often surprising appetizers (andouillette kebab, baos stuffed with chorizo, etc.) for around 5 euros. Do you prefer gourmet halls? Food Traboule opens its dozen counters in a 16th century housee century located in Vieux-Lyon (addition around 25 euros). For equally surprising restaurant meals, here is our selection of addresses, from very accessible tapas to a Michelin-starred experience.

Leptin

With his plates to share (from 15 euros), Steven Thiebaut-Pellegrino, chef passionate about martial arts, puts culinary conventions to rest. His dishes, which play on surprising elements (algae, yeast mash, etc.), acidity (homemade pickles), burntness (barbecue sugar), can be confusing, like the house playlist combining Aya Nakamura and Colette Magny. But the tasting is very convincing. Behind his big beard and his tattoos, the chef is a nice guy who wants good for your taste buds.

Leptin 16, rue Hippolyte-Flandrin, 1er. Such. : 04-78-08-14-03.

Substrate

A favorite. Chef Hubert Vergoin is a virtuoso capable of concocting lunch menus (from 21 euros) with astonishing mastery. The day we visited, a hake mousseline with mushrooms, bubbling in a perfect white butter, wowed us. In the evening, the boss unleashes his creativity, as evidenced by this char marinated, then smoked with hay and cooked at low temperature, which barely resists the bite before melting under the tongue.

Substrate 7, rue Pailleron, 4e. Such. : 04-78-29-14-93.

Culina Hortus

The work of chef Adrien Zedda is a demonstration of strength: yes, vegetables are enough to create haute cuisine. The menus (from 45 euros for lunch) sublimate the vegetable aspect without trying to reproduce the icons of meat cuisine. A simple turnip cut into thin slices can be transformed, for example, into a ravioli stuffed with mushrooms, in a creamy sauce topped with a little Burgundian red wine.

Culina Hortus 38, rue de l’Arbre-Sec, 1er. Such. : 04-69-84-71-08.

Alebrije

The chef of Mexican origin Carla Kirsch Lopez and her sommelier companion, Vincent Gerbelli, offer a unique formula (menus from 58 euros) mixing flavors. The owner makes, for example, a tempura (fried) of green asparagus, using nixtamalized flour for the dough – it is generally used for tortillas – and puffed rice, then adds mustard seeds. Subtly flavored, crispy, the vegetable takes on a gastronomic dimension. Also note the exceptional work on the peppers.

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