This season marks the beginning of a renewal for Zegna. The Italian label shortened its name (the first name Ermenegildo disappeared from the equation), changed its visual identity and signed its listing on the New York Stock Exchange in December 2021, thus becoming the first Italian label to be listed on the other side of the Atlantic.
During Milan fashion week, which took place from January 14 to 18, the Italian Alessandro Sartori, head of the artistic direction of Zegna since 2016, chose the video format. We came across fluid and elegant silhouettes, articulated around large thick knit sweaters, soft pants or enveloping coats: men’s fashion without frills, fashioned in beautiful materials.
How do you perceive the Italian fashion sector in these complicated times?
It’s a strange time, but we have to stay positive and creative. In a way, it’s easier because I travel a lot less, so I have more time.
Was the original idea to organize a fashion show?
Yes, but given the health situation, it seemed more reasonable to us to present the collection through a video format. This allows me to get closer to other disciplines, to understand the different camera positions, to choose the lenses… I really like the idea of the “metatheatre”, mixing the classic parade of models with a performance of dancers and adding a cinematic side to the whole. That’s what we managed to do, I believe.
What did you want to tell through this collection?
I wanted comfort served by a very refined aesthetic, almost minimalist, while being as modern as possible.
Zegna is renowned for his costume work. How do these evolve?
It is no longer necessary to match a jacket and pants to call it a suit. We can completely consider a shirt or a sweater worn with matching soft pants. Customers are asking for new proposals. This is linked to our new lifestyles, we are indeed working more and more from home.
Designers have expressed their desire to change the fashion system during the pandemic, in particular to slow down the pace of collections. Do you agree?
This doesn’t really apply to Zegna, as we only do four collections a year, which I find is a good balance.
How do you approach the issue of eco-responsible fashion in your collections?
It’s essential. Our wools come from our already existing stocks or from recycled pieces, while for our cashmere we work with a single farm in Mongolia, which makes it fully traceable.