When the fashion show season approaches, it’s always the same question: which brand will exhibit on its catwalk the handbag that will be unanimous? Who will be the new lucky winner of the closed circle of it-bags, these models that have become cults that stir up all desires despite their often stratospheric prices, like the 2.55 from Chanel, the Baguette from Fendi or the Classic from Celine?
Although a study published in June by the American consulting firm Circana shows that in the United States six out of ten young women (aged 18 to 34) do without a handbag easily, the market is still very GOOD. The financial analysis office Data Bridge Market Research published its report on the issue in March: the value of the global luxury bag market, which was 22.61 billion dollars in 2021, would reach, according to forecasts, 42.48 billion dollars by 2029.
What do we now expect from a handbag? “That it responds to the trends and desires of the moment, and that it is of very good quality”, explains Camille Pezaire, shoes and leather goods buyer for the Parisian department store Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche. And, at the moment, the trend is discretion. Gone are the bright colors, the convoluted shapes and the overload of colorful logos, welcome to the era of “quiet luxury”understand the “discreet luxury”. The only exception: Jacquemus’ Chiquito, whose success is undeniable. Available in a plethora of pop colors, its mini version (5 centimeters deep and 12 centimeters wide) is more of an ornament than a useful accessory.
“ Currently, the handbag is seen as an investment, both financial – because the models of luxury houses are expensive, even very expensive, some approaching several thousand euros – as long term: as we want to be able to carry our bag with the vast majority of her wardrobe, it has to go with everything! »adds the buyer.
Non-ostentatious chic
In the discreet style, certain models stand out from the crowd: the Triomphe de Celine, a rectangular leather bag that can be worn on the shoulder or across the body and is distinguished by its sober logo as a clasp; the Loewe Puzzle, a small model in supple leather that fits on the shoulder; or the Sardine by Bottega Veneta, crafted in Intrecciato calfskin, the house’s signature, and fitted with a sleek, jewel-like handle.
“ Bottega Veneta’s models also respond to the growing interest in craftsmanship and know-how, the brand being renowned for these qualities. Just look at the success of hand-woven raffia baskets this summer », adds Camille Pezaire. More accessible labels, such as Sœur or APC, are very present on the street, with their non-ostentatious chic models, available in smooth and plain leathers, such as the Bellissima with its clip clasp (Sœur) or the Grace, bag elegant and all-purpose square (APC).
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