From Louis Vuitton to Chanel, the repeated controversies of cultural appropriation in fashion

2024: blouse shot

For Romanians, there is no doubt: this white blouse embroidered with black patterns, a Louis Vuitton piece from the spring-summer 2024 LV by The Pool collection, is a carbon copy of the one worn in the villages of Mărginimea Sibiului, in Transylvania. This imitation was revealed by the La Blouse roumaine collective on its Facebook page on June 2, a post shared thousands of times and making the front page of the country’s press. The Romanian Minister of Culture, Raluca Turcan, even contacted the LVMH group brand, while politicians approached the European Commission in order to have the brand recognized. ” Cultural Heritage “ of this typical garment.

2020: reasons for discord

In November 2020, Isabel Marant was reprimanded by the Mexican government, which accused her of having reproduced motifs from the Purépechas indigenous community in her Etoile fall-winter 2020-2021 collection. “On what grounds do you privatize a collective good, using cultural elements whose origin is fully documented? “, asks Mexican Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto Guerrero in a public letter. Very quickly, the French designer apologized. However, she had already been pinned in 2015, after using traditional blouse patterns from the state of Oaxaca, Mexico.

Jacket from the Etoile fall-winter 2020-2021 collection.
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2019: sideline turban

THE dastar, turban worn by Sikhs, is an important symbol for this religious community of more than twenty million faithful from India. That’s why when Gucci put a royal blue turban on sale for $790 (730 euros) on the Nordstrom store chain’s website, the web ended up bursting into flames. “This turban is not an accessory for making money,” tweets the organization The Sikh Coalition, based in the United States. Other people accuse the Italian label of taking advantage of “same look” for which Sikhs are discriminated against. Radio silence from the brand side.

Gucci show, in February 2019, during Milan Fashion Week.

2013: stolen in the feathers

Failed tribute. For its tenth edition, in December 2013, the Chanel Métiers d’art fashion show took place in Dallas, Texas. The appearance of two models wearing white feathered headdresses shocks Native American communities. Activist Sasha Houston Brown, of the Santee Sioux Tribe of Nebraska, calls them “offensive caricatures” while these headdresses “are sacred objects used by tribal leaders during religious ceremonies”. Chanel defends itself, arguing that this collection developed by Karl Lagerfeld was a “celebration” of the beauty of Texas and its rich craftsmanship.

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