From Reims to Lyon, five places to test offal

There are fewer and fewer tables that really specialize in offal, but those we have selected offer at least one dish of triperie permanently on the menu. Even beginners can enjoy it.

La Meunière

Impossible to talk about offal without mentioning a Lyon cork. La Meunière has been delighting wine lovers for nearly a hundred years near the Place des Terreaux. Olivier Canal’s table offers a starter-main course-cheese or dessert menu at 27 euros which allows you to savor the plate of Lyonnais salad bowls (muzzle, cervelas, calf’s feet, lentils, etc.), the sapeur’s apron with gribiche sauce or the veal kidneys with Port and mustard seed. For a cheaper version, try the classics revisited by the same chef at Food Traboule (22, rue du Bœuf).

11, rue Neuve 69001 Lyon.

The Purple and the olive trees

In this highly recommended establishment in Hérault, chef Calixte Rasse cooks offal with love, and it shows. Pig’s trotters worked in the form of a pancake are fabulously delicious. The sapper’s apron (the paunch cooked in broth) is a hit, fried and breaded. From one year to the next, the cards follow one another without resembling each other, at affordable prices (less than 20 euros per dish). And the boss doesn’t count his cooking and skinning hours to deliver the best of the “fifth quarter”.

135, route d’Aniane 34150 Saint-Jean-de-Fos.

The restaurant of the Château de Sacy

Are you hesitant to try sweetbreads? Try those of the restaurant at the Château de Sacy, set in the middle of the Champagne vineyards. The dish is not cheap (44 euros), but at this price you will enjoy the work of chef Andy Bouglé, as conscientious as he is generous. Its heart of sweetbread is accompanied, depending on the season, with gnocchi, peas, mushrooms or even butternut.

Rue des Croisettes 51500 Sacy.

The Perchoir Ménilmontant

During a three-month residency until January 18, Adrien Cachot at the helm of this unique place at 7e floor of a building in the popular Parisian district of Ménilmontant offers a “blind” menu for 95 euros. We will not reveal everything, but the sweet madman declares his love for offal: marinated duck tongue, calf’s brain, heart, gizzard and pigeon liver … An experience all the more surprising as the chef plays on the scythes. pretenses, for example giving the brain the color and texture of tofu.

14, rue Crespin-du-Gast Paris 11e.

Pig’s foot

This historic Parisian brasserie accommodates lovers of good food twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. Chef Christophe Lemaire, from the bistronomy, does not deny the offal specialties: crispy pig’s trotters and snails (12.50 euros), black pudding ravioli with Espelette pepper (9 euros) … attack, try the dizzying temptation of Saint-Antoine (27 euros) which combines tail, ear, muzzle and breaded pig’s trotters, presented in a bell, with béarnaise sauce and homemade fries.

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