For more than forty years, Japan has become a reference of choice for French chefs. Today, some French establishments magnify Japanese specialties (ramen, donburi) on tight and accessible menus. Gastronomic establishments also add a pinch of the Archipelago in more mixed dishes where seaweed, cooking on the Japanese barbecue skilfully shakes up a dish that is a little tame.
Imayoko
Julien Lemarié has set up near his starred address (Ima) this more affordable table which focuses at lunchtime on donburi, a traditional dish made with steamed rice. A donburi, soup and dessert formula (22 euros) allows you to appreciate the talent of the master who combines cereal with pollack, braised pork or fermented cabbage. In the evening, Imayoko takes up the codes of a izakaya (Japanese wine bar) where we share tasty dishes: barbecued mackerel, pollack teriyaki, candied shoulder of lamb and shitake…
20, boulevard de la Tour-d’Auvergne, 35000 Rennes. Such. : 02 99 52 03 46.
Mikado
This small establishment with beautiful blond stone vaults lends itself to all the whims of chef Taketomo Luu Sumi who was introduced to France by his Japanese chef father. Black belt of ramen (offered in the evening and Friday lunchtime), the owner notably prepares fabulous tonkotsu noodles, based on pork bone broth, but also goutus gyozas and oxtail simmered in sake. Hearty dish at 12 euros for lunch.
31, rue Alexandre-Cabanel, 34000 Montpellier. Such. : 07 88 19 12 29.
Bellefeuille
Julien Dumas’ gourmet restaurant has a very aristocratic look (dishes from 32 euros), in the Saint James Paris palace, created in a 19th century castleand from the west of Paris. But its relationship to the micro-seasons, its skillful work on simple products (such as this asparagus with three different cooking times) or not (fillet of John Dory topped with a crispy seaweed tuile) make it one of the best addresses of the selection.
5, place du Chancellor-Adenauer, Paris 16and. Such. : 01 44 05 81 88.
Gabriel
Sitting at the two-star table of Jérôme Banctel, in the luxury hotel La Réserve, is the promise of a long-term trip that inevitably passes through Japan. Ambassador of yuzu (before fashion), lover of cherry leaves, this great technician from Rennes is inspired by the false simplicity of Japanese dishes. And his plates are shot through with flashes that the palate won’t soon forget: egg yolk marinated in miso, lobster with binchotan charcoal, rice pudding mixed with sake… Menus from 78 euros.
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