Chanel fashion show on June 25, 2024 at the Palais Garnier, in Paris (AFP / ALAIN JOCARD)
In the middle of haute couture week in Paris, Chanel presented Tuesday at the Opéra Garnier a “grand evenings” collection, prepared by its studios after the sudden departure of its artistic director, Virginie Viard and while waiting to find ” the rare bird” to succeed him.
The stakes were high for Chanel, which had to prove in a few weeks that with or without its director, France’s best-known fashion house could stay the course.
The studio’s 150 artisans have thus crafted a “great evening” collection, according to the press release, “sophisticated, luxurious, theatrical”, like the parade organized in the corridors of the opera transformed into an intimate dressing room.
A model presents a Chanel creation during the Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2024 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week at the Palais Garnier (Paris National Opera) in Paris on June 25, 2024 (AFP / Alain JOCARD)
Medieval cape, evening dress with puffed sleeves, elegant matador outfit with white bib and velvet tuxedo punctuate the house’s classic tweeds, with touches of burgundy and bright black.
In this cozy decor, the very “lagerfeldian” introduction of vinyl brings an unexpected touch to this parade of models wearing a large bow in their hair, a guaranteed “flirty” effect.
The collection was warmly applauded and the first words of fashion critics were enthusiastic.
-“Rare bird” –
French fashion designer Virginie Viard for Chanel greets the public at the end of the fashion show for the fall-winter 2020-2021 women’s ready-to-wear collection in Paris, March 3, 2020 (AFP / Christophe ARCHAMBAULT)
At Chanel, the crisis had been brewing for months, the skeptical pouts in the front row of each Virginie Viard fashion show had become recurrent: it exploded on May 2, after the cruise show in Marseille, criticized for its haphazard cuts and a certain lack of audacity.
Virginie Viard, 62, took this prestigious and demanding position in 2019, after the death of the legendary creator. She had previously worked alongside him for over 20 years.
The succession, carefully prepared by the “Kaiser” of fashion, was to be temporary. It lasted five years. And the “timing” of the separation was “imposed” on the house, its president of fashion activities, Bruno Pavlovsky, revealed on Tuesday.
For the future, the criteria begin to take shape, man or woman it doesn’t matter, but Chanel wants someone who will do Chanel.
“We will never make a clean slate of what exists at Chanel… There is a framework, the artistic direction must work within this framework,” Mr. Pavlovsky told the daily Le Figaro.
He adds that the house will take the time it takes to find the “rare bird.”
“The biggest difficulty today is that few designers know haute couture, have this expertise,” he says, about this traditional French know-how.
– Champagne bath –
Among the names circulating, that of Hedi Slimane (Céline) has been coming up the most for months now, with the possibility of a first line for men.
More surprising would be those of the Frenchwoman Marine Serre or Simon Porte Jacquemus. Pierpaolo Piccioli, who left Valentino four months ago, would also be a legitimate candidate, as would the British Sarah Burton, who designed Princess Kate’s wedding dress.
After Chanel’s vaudeville at the opera, Alexis Mabille invited his guests to another show, this time at the Lido. From lunch, the French designer received hundreds of guests seated with their bottles of champagne and presented a collection of evening dresses all in rhinestones, bronzes and sensuality, concluded with a foam bath falling from the sky onto the room.
American cabaret dancer Dita Von Teese performs after the Alexis Mabille Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at the Lido 2 cabaret in Paris on June 25, 2024. (AFP / EMMANUEL DUNAND)
But when you think that’s already a lot, burlesque performer Dita Von Teese emerges from the ground, in a giant glass of champagne, for a stripping of leaves in a bath of bubbles.
“The idea was to have fun, to have fun, to forget in a few moments everything that is happening everywhere and to keep this mischievous and creative side,” declared after the show, Alexis Mabille at the ‘AFP.
Canadian model Coco Rocha presents a creation by Stéphane Rolland during the Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2024 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week in Paris on June 25, 2024. (AFP / JULIEN DE ROSA)
At Stéphane Rolland, the homage to Paris in black and white by photographer Brassaï, with fatal silhouettes, red lips and a mysterious air, with thin waists and dizzying sculpture and bare backs.