how to successfully fade?

Want to swap your black hair for a light brown? Whether your hair is naturally black or colored, bleaching takes skill. Our tips for getting a beautiful color without finishing your head shaved.

Very often confused with dark brown, black hair has the distinction of being a deep, very dark color, sometimes even described as extreme (this is the case with raven black, like platinum blonde). This dark hair has the advantage of reflecting the light very well and can even claim a shine that blondes will never match. This hair is, in fact, the brightest hair on the entire hair palette. You just have to see the magnificent manes of Priyanka Chopra, Demi Moore, Lucy Liu or Jenifer Bartoli … Whether they have warm (brown, red) or cold (blue, silver) reflections, we find this dark shade to the four corners of the planet. However, while it works with all skin tones and looks equally good on dark skin as well as fair complexions, dark hair isn't for everyone. Before painting black, be careful! This color tends to mark facial features and accentuate dull skin tone. Whether it is a bad hair day or not, we often recommend accompanying it with makeup to counter these effects, at the risk of passing for Morticia Addams' twin.

If you have dark hair and dream of lightening it up a bit, or even getting a brown hair, there aren't 36 solutions. Impossible to do a blonde coloring or even just a little lighter on a dark base, it would not show. We will have to go through a discoloration. Are you on the verge of taking the plunge? Read this article carefully, do not use just any products and book an appointment with your favorite hairdresser, especially if it is your first time.

Bleach natural black hair

During the bleaching process, an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide) contained in the formula used makes the cuticle permeable to the product by opening the scales of the hair. Mixed with a bleaching powder, it settles in the heart of the hair. Then the discoloration begins, the powder removing the color of the natural pigments. It is inevitable, this step chemically modifies the fiber and weakens it, hence the need to take all precautions. This weakening of the hair can however be limited depending on the method used (and the kit used as well as the person in charge!). Once the scales are closed, the hair is thinner and clearer. Attention, after having applied the product strand by strand, it is imperative to respect the exposure time according to your color. The hair goes through several stages and shades (red, orange, yellow …) and by rinsing too early, you risk stopping the discoloration at the wrong time and ending up with orange or red hair therefore. And so there … hello hairstyle! However, don't hesitate to check the process every ten minutes. If, on the contrary, you leave the product on for too long, the color will not be lighter but the hair may be extremely damaged and porous. Another important point: the roots and lengths do not fade in unison. You may have to do it several times. And it is only after the bleaching is complete that the bleached hair can be pigmented and colored again.

Remember that successive discolorations inevitably damage the hair. If you decide to do it at home, choose a bleach kit that has some good products in it. Do not hesitate to ask your hairdresser in terms of brands to favor why not. And avoid the '90s trend at all costs of bleaching your hair with hydrogen peroxide alone in your bathroom.

What shade can you afford with black hair?

If you want to bring some highlights, or gently lighten your jet-black hair, be sure to choose a color that is fairly close to your base. All hairdressing pros are unanimous: nature is pretty well done. Avoid too drastic changes and favor natural colorings, one or two shades lighter. Choose your reflections and your shade according to the color of your skin but also its undertone and the color of your irises. Knowing that you can have ebony hair naturally with very pale skin or very dark skin, the advice is not the same for everyone.

The shades to favor according to the skin tone

Starting from a deep black, you can quite claim very beautiful colorings: a chocolate brown or a dark chestnut for example.

Home discoloration: the risks!

Bleaching a blonde or light brown is easy enough, although we can't recommend consulting a colorist enough when it comes to bleaching. In contrast, lightening ebony strands is far from child's play. In fact, it's as "dangerous" to your hair as a failed perm. If you don't want to go through the "burnt hair, cut everything" step or orange hair and don't want to just hate yourself, there are some precautions you should take. And rather twice than once! First of all, check the liabilities and the condition of your hair by asking yourself the right questions: is it natural or colored? Have they been colored many times? Have you ever gone through blonde hair and dark hair a few times? The method and the result depend on it.

Then, are they healthy, not too damaged or attacked to withstand chemical discoloration which will traumatize the fiber? Straightening, daily straightening, or perms seriously damage the lengths. It doesn't mix well with the discoloration. If so, it's best to put your cravings at half mast for now and postpone any discoloration. If you've just had a perm or straightened at the hairdresser, wait at least three weeks before bleaching. As much as fading has an irreversible side and if you can color a light base, you can't do everything and everything either. In case of failed bleaching and therefore, let's say it, sometimes "slaughtered" hair, the only solution will be to cut and wait for the regrowth. If you have dark hair and dream of changing your shade and look, make an appointment with a colourist.

Fading in stages

Depending on the desired result (chestnut, blond, platinum …), the discoloration can be done in several stages. Kim Kardashian didn't turn platinum blonde at the hands of famous colorist Frédéric Mennetrier in five minutes flat. And while the change was pretty quick for her (she had time …), keep in mind that if you want to make such a drastic fade, you'll have to do it a few times and go through different colors. Depending on the degree of lightening, it may take several sessions to reach your hair goal. Wait a month between each bleaching so as not to make your hair dry and elastic. Note that the lengths will take longer to react than the scalp and that the exposure time depends on the latter. No need to burn your scalp just because the ends have not yet reached the desired color! Also, expect to go through some intermediate steps which may not be to your liking, especially if you are dreaming of a polar blonde. You remember ? Red, orange, yellow … By bleaching black hair, the warm tones are highlighted, and it is possible to go through copper colors. Ideally, don't bleach more than two tones, especially if you're doing it alone directly from your bathroom. Again, if you want to go from one extreme to the other, that is, from raven black to polar blonde (and this is the first time), consult your hairdresser first.

Bleach colored black hair

In this case, it's almost like makeup removal. If you have used a non-permanent color, it is enough to release the color by washing your hair with shampoo, quite simply. Be careful, depending on the brands, it will be necessary to perform several washes before successfully removing all the black pigments. Some houses offer products to use at home to release the color and leave on a lighter basis. They are called “strippers” and are formulated with a bleaching powder. The word can be scary but it is the only solution when looking to lighten a dark color.

Which bleach product to choose?

Again, to bleach black hair, it's best to consult your hairdresser. But if you are determined and motivated to try your luck at home, there are bleach kits that contain bleach powder and liquid peroxide. The dosage of a kit is generally one dose of powder for two doses of oxidants.

Natural methods to lighten black hair

Apple cider vinegar, lemon juice, chamomile infusion … Let me be clear: you won't get a very pronounced discoloration or a particular color with these natural processes. This is more of a subtle brightening (which may be accompanied by a few highlights) than a fading. These solutions are more effective on light than dark hair. For this, you need the juice of a few lemons. Wash your hair as usual, if possible with a mild shampoo that respects the hair fiber, then let it sit for a few moments before adding the lemon juice on top. Massage to distribute the juice evenly then wait five minutes. Rinse thoroughly. You can also soak your hair with chamomile tea for several minutes or use it as a rinse water.

How to maintain bleached hair?

To say that bleached hair needs care is an understatement. And the more the discoloration, the more the hair will need to be nourished and maintained! Choose a shampoo that respects colored, dry or damaged hair and if possible without sulfates, so as not to further attack the fiber. Are you now blond? You can very well use a blue or purple shampoo that neutralizes unwanted warm highlights. Think about nourishing the hair in depth by providing lipids with specific care and helping them to close and smooth their scales: a nourishing mask, a repairing serum, moisturizing cream or even a regenerating hair oil. Apply one of these treatments after each shampooing on the lengths. If you opt for an oil, you can do bedtime "oil baths", let your hair drink everything it needs before washing it off the next morning. Finally, with such a dark base, the roots reappear quickly, especially if you now have blonde hair. Make regular appointments with your hairdresser for touch-ups. Do not hesitate to ask her for a diagnosis to determine the frequency of these appointments.

The repairing mask

Hemp, a darling cosmetic ingredient for several seasons, is featured in this revitalizing and nourishing mask to wake up stressed and damaged lengths.

The cocktail of beneficial oils

The combined powers of linseed, sesame, coconut and grape seed oils unite in this nourishing serum to hydrate even the driest and most damaged hair.

Respect, the Serum, David Lucas, € 50