Eleusis (Elefsina, in modern Greek), a small coastal town of 25,000 inhabitants, 21 kilometers northwest of Athens, is a far cry from the postcard-perfect Greek landscapes. Here, there are no white houses at the corner of flowery alleys or heavenly beaches. Eleusis is not picturesque, and Athenians hardly ventured there in recent decades. Low houses and disused industries overlook the tall smokestacks of refineries. Its bay is strewn with carcasses of wrecked or abandoned boats. Bathing is not recommended, due to the many chemicals dumped in the water.
But Eleusis is also the homeland of the ancient playwright Aeschylus and has a rich archaeological site, since the city was one of the most important religious centers in antiquity, and rites dedicated to the worship of Demeter, the goddess of fertility and agriculture, stood there. From the 19the century, the city became an important industrial center and welcomed thousands of Greek refugees from Asia Minor, driven out by Turkish nationalists in 1922. More recently, migrant camps have been set up nearby.
And yet, despite these scars from the past that have marked the environment, Eleusis has been chosen to be, in 2023, one of the European capitals of culture with Timisoara, in Romania, and Veszprém, in Hungary. And the hope was born that, perhaps, the city could change.
“This small town – the smallest European capital ever elected in this capacity – brings together very contemporary issues, such as questions of deindustrialisation, unemployment, immigration, the environment, and that is why it was chosen »assures the director and artistic director of the event, Michail Marmarinos.
For Despina Geroulanou, President of Eleusis 2023, within the framework of the European Capitals of Culture, “small towns, often in difficulty, are put forward precisely to have the opportunity to change their image and define their future through culture, research and art”.
She defines Eleusis as “a city of antitheses, mysteries, myths, [elle] is fascinating precisely because of these contrasts”. “The archaeological site next to the factories, the abandoned boats at sea, the inhabitants who arrived from all parts of Greece and beyond to work, all this forms an extremely interesting mosaic. »
On February 4, the opening ceremony offered an exceptional sound and light show over the sea, attracting more than 15,000 visitors. “Our city has turned into a huge open-air festival. We only saw smiles, emotion and pride, and, despite the problems we all face (economic crisis, inflation, etc.), we escaped everyday life a little. »rejoices Argyris Economou, the mayor.
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