In Nice, these ravioli from Maison Barale “mix the singularity of candied lemon with the spicy warmth of ginger”

Dn the maze of Old Nice, at peak times, groups of tourists, just leaving the cathedral, slow down to examine with surprise the very long line leaving a small shop. Maybe it’s not in their guide, but it’s a monument in Nice. At number 7 rue Sainte-Réparate, Maison Barale has been making fresh pasta for more than a century. In the windows, the basics of Nissard cuisine: gnocchi, panisses, tagliatelle and ravioli (without “s”, Italian style). “Nicois” with stew, ricotta-spinach or lemon-ginger, it is above all for them that we hurry, coming from all over the city and sometimes from further afield. Everyone has their own preference and it is not uncommon for it to change with the mood and the seasons. But since we have to make a choice, we are going to talk about lemon-ginger.

Ravioli, in Nice, is made from white flour and not durum wheat semolina. From there, a characteristic suppleness and finesse, specifies Nathalie Barale.

The friendly welcome is immediately joined by the pleasure of the eyes. Ravioli on wooden boards, like so many little cushions filled with stuffing, are cut by the dozen (allow 2 to 3 dozen per person). The rest takes place at home. After three minutes of cooking – the countdown begins as soon as they are immersed in boiling water – all you have to do is carefully remove them with a slotted spoon and add a drizzle of olive oil and a veil of Parmesan cheese. All that remains is to savor these ravioli which combine, on a base of sheep’s milk ricotta (from Corsica), the singularity of candied organic lemon (in salt) with the spicy heat of ginger. Result: ultra-comforting ravioli, with a filling that is both sweet and fresh, which won over even the most doubtful… and led to some addictions.

Ravioli, in Nice, is made from white flour and not durum wheat semolina. From there, a characteristic suppleness and finesse, specifies Nathalie Barale. When, in 1992, she took over the business with her husband, Eric Guernion, they kept the original recipes and chose at the same time to innovate for the stuffings – the tasty ricotta-spinach are essential, followed, about fifteen years ago. years, by lemon-ginger. In 2020, they are joined by their son, Thomas, who returned to Nice after spending three years in Paris, with Alain Passard – as chef de partie at l’Arpège.

Rue Sainte-Réparate, the father and the son work with the rolling mill already used by the great-grandfather, Matteo, who arrived from Piedmont in 1892. The cutting is operated by a machine that the father of Nathalie Barale had it made to measure in the 1960s. The success of Maison Barale is due to this talent: having known how to remain popular and authentic, while innovating. From now on, on the blackboard announcing the ravioli of the week, are displayed creations for the weekend, always in season. As soon as they are published on Instagram, these limited editions are all available for pre-order by phone. In Nice, many people have the Maison Barale number saved on their mobile.