Servon is perpendicular to the national road on which the cars spin towards Mont-Saint-Michel. To get there, you have to pound in the middle of the machines launched at 110 kilometers per hour. But who does not know how to take risks could not discover the Auberge Sauvage… Even the kids of the village who cycle in the rain do not know it. Normal, Jessica Schein and Thomas Benady have only been welcoming clients since January.
Coming from the Paris region, they settled in a former 16th century presbytery.e century where one sleeps in peace, in one of the three immaculate bedrooms. After fixing everything up and starting a vegetable garden, they got down to business. Thomas Benady had already been spotted in Boulogne-Billancourt, in a restaurant, La Machine à eloudes, which he held at arm’s length with his companion at the time.
He already ate dishes where the plant was one of the protagonists. Then there was Nettles in Paris. And now this Norman-Breton border where radicalism takes shape in small steps, under the benevolent gaze of Jessica, a schoolteacher converted for love to the profession of the room.
Ecstasy is total
Between two rains, a glass of perry can be drunk on the terrace facing the vegetable garden which sees beans, corn of multiple varieties, Japanese melons, Rennes, cumin, lemon balm and edible flowers with names known only to cooks. There are three of them busy for dinner, a real part of the journey that starts off strong.
Jessica offers to bite into a daylily bud, a delicate flower that black garlic mayonnaise reveals. It resonates strangely with the fat of the homemade pastrami. Maybe the smoky notes? To wash the palate with this autumnal topping, an oyster bursts into frosted kohlrabi crystals. The oxalis and its special acidity underline the chilling character of the association.
Calm returns with the shortbread tartlet with spring vegetables. The peas and the first green beans dispense their invigorating chlorophyll on a mat of homemade yogurt. The butter of the dough bounces off the sweet peas; the sour yogurt on their crunch. Stuffed cabbage is like a wrapped Japanese gift. Cocoon of softness tone on tone, cabbage on cabbage.
Who could believe that a simple mackerel is the door open to the mystery? Hardly out of the water, served raw, it has extraordinary flesh. Drizzled with carrot water subtly sweetened with elderberry, it reaches a virginal dimension transcended by lemon balm oil, a herb with minor consonances and subterranean freshness. Should we continue to unroll the menu when the ecstasy is total? Since Thomas Benady describes himself as a silent person, let us leave his word in suspense. Thus, the more daring will take this perpendicular turn which leads straight towards the unexplored.
The address Auberge Sauvage, 3, place Saint-Martin, Servon (Manche). Phone. : 02-33-60-17-92. Open from Thursday to Monday.
The bill Stay for two people (2 meals and one night), 206 €. Possibility of having lunch or dinner without sleeping on site.
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