In Petit Cambodge, natin “tastes like satay combined with the sweetness of coconut milk”

BAlthough Paris is full of canteens and proven Asian recipes – the spring roll bo bun (rue de Tourtille, 20^e), Dong Huong’s chicken soup (rue Louis-Bonnet, 11^e), lok lak (marinated beef sautéed with rice) from Cô My Cantine (rue de Ménilmontant, 20^e) – the search for new addresses and flavors at the end of the world continues.

Going down Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, which changes at full speed, then taking Rue Bichat, with its new restaurants (Thai, Italian, Hawaiian, etc.), why not return to Petit Cambodge? On November 13, 2015, thirteen people died under the bullets of terrorists, not to mention the many wounded, at this crossroads that the restaurant shares with Le Carillon. We always think about it, every time we pass by. But it’s good to come back. Good to eat here.

That Sunday, sitting on a stool at a high table, in this very bright room with its large panoramic window, a dish caught our attention. Its unknown name sounds almost French: the natin, promise of satiny flavor or covered with something? In fact, it is also written “nataing”. The mixture looks strange, like the meeting of ground pork and some shrimp.

A little secret

When the dish arrives, generous, in a bowl (no chopsticks, but a spoon like in Cambodia, where these utensils are not used), it is pretty with its coral color and its immaculate rice served on the side. This house specialty is absolutely delicious. The creamy dish has the taste of satay, a condiment typical of Southeast Asia, combined with the sweetness of coconut milk. Onions, chives, coriander and topping peanuts complete the recipe. As the tasting progresses, the rice is added to the dish. Everything comes together wonderfully. The director, Simon October, says it is enhanced with a little secret: oil with the flavor of grilled garlic.

“After November 13, we didn’t want to change the furniture or rethink the layout. The open kitchen remained. We played on colors. And added thirteen white tiles on the walls in memory of the victims. » Today, Le Petit Cambodge is accessible all day, every day of the week. According to Simon, the natin is the comforting dish for those who went out the day before and need to eat healthy. “In Cambodia, they say it’s a wedding dish. I haven’t found any anywhere else in Paris so far.” he points out.

You can add a little soy sauce to counterbalance its sweet and salty side and accompany it with an Angkor beer, a Cambodian blond. But Simon Octobre assures us that the natin, like all the dishes in his restaurant, can also be eaten very well with wine, for example a light and fruity red. The establishment offers references from rigorously selected estates (nothing to do with the standard Bordeaux of Chinese restaurants of yesteryear!). Little Cambodia is big. He looks ahead.