No tears tonight; it has already rained enough in Tangier. A melancholy has just embraced this corner of Morocco, where the sky, intensely black, seems to be in mourning for a too crazy dream. Wednesday, December 14, the Atlas Lions stumbled against France (2-0), in the semi-finals of the World Cup.
And yet, in the alleys of the medina, no one really needs to be consoled. “There’s no point in crying or being demoralized. On the contrary, we are very, very happy. This is the first time that an African, Arab and Muslim team has reached this level in a World Cup.says Abdoul Ila, a 60-year-old restaurateur. “We can only be satisfied: we have almost reached the end of the tournament. And it’s unexpected, unexpected, incredible.abounds Ahmed Arouche, another 60-year-old trader. “With this World Cup, we have won a big name”claims Mr. Ila.
How to contradict it… It is a puzzling feeling that Moroccans share, that night: to listen to them, this defeat against the Blues is, above all, “a great victory”, as Aissa Zahidi says, with a bright smile. For this 27-year-old receptionist, losing is also winning. Earn the gratitude of a continent, the respect of the rest of the world and the undying love of a people. “The Lions really fought for the flag. They have shown that they have values, respect and sportsmanship.”insists the young man.
A few hours before this historic semi-final for the kingdom, we cannot imagine, then, going out at the gates of the final. Kylian Mbappé’s Blues? One more obstacle that will be swept away like Belgium (2-0), Canada (2-1), Spain (0-0 ap, 3-0 tab) or Portugal (1-0). This France-Morocco is a duel with a particular tinge: it resonates deep within everyone, with reason or passion. Especially in Tangier, which is close to Europe. “A semi-final against France is to play with the family, with your cousins or your half-brothersbelieves Hassan Amrabat, who runs a decoration store. We will win 2-0. So far, I have never been wrong in my predictions. » There is a beginning for everything…
Glimpse of history
Not far from him, in a shop where carpets overflow the walls, Rachid Haddadi, a 60-year-old craftsman, with a delicate kindness, sees in this meeting a nice nod to history. “To be in the semi-finals is to be one of the greatest. We must now treat us as such, and stop seeing us as an old colonyhe explains without the slightest acrimony, in a calm tone. We Moroccans always dream of being better than the French who colonized us. To beat France would be to overcome a kind of naivety. » Is it then a revenge against history? “No, we are not Algerians”loose Hassan Amrabat, in a burst of laughter.
The stalls close earlier than usual: no question of missing a minute of the game. Some anticipate traffic jams, others think of reserving a seat in a café, three hours before kick-off. To have the right to watch the confrontation on the big screen, bars or restaurants charge for the place: 10, 30, 50 dirhams (4.50 euros), or even much more. Not at Maaité.
In a corner of the medina from another time, a rooster has been… tied to the foot of a table at the entrance to this tiny popular café. “If we win, we eat it”, launches a customer, Soviet chapka on the head. Inside we hear Abdel Kader, tube signed Rachid Taha, and young people who imitate the song of the bird: teasing, these customers. We burn time by chaining cigarettes; in the air, there is more nicotine than oxygen to breathe.
Here, we think the mektoub, “destiny” in Arabic, is on the side of Moroccans. “God is great”, the Lions too. When they appear on the screen, we applaud them to burst the hands; we push them by throwing “animal”, “courage” in Spanish; we applaud the coach Walid Regragui by nicknaming him, with affection, “fartass”the “bald” in Arabic…
Stunned supporters
In a few minutes, the semi-final, the first for Morocco, for Africa, will begin. “Long live Morocco”, Animo Hakimi, “long live the brothers” resonate in this space of 15 square meters. The Andalusian influence is there. The twenty people are concentrated. Outside, the bumpy streets are empty and left to cats.
The Moroccans have the ball; with each pass, the supporters shout “ole” Where “sir, sir, sir” (“Go ahead, go ahead, go ahead”). 5e minute: Théo Hernandez, with an acrobatic volley, opens the scoring and, from Doha, extinguishes the café and all of Tangier. Supporters are stunned. Cheers go silent. The insults fuse, against the referee in particular.
In the second half, Maaité’s customers regained their voice: the national team pushed on. From the neighboring cafes, we hear howls: there is a slight shift. Everyone then believes that their next action the Lions will score. No, it’s another wasted opportunity. 79e minute: Randal Kolo Muani pushes the leather to the back of the net. 2-0. “Goodbye”, launches a supporter in the cafe. Some get up and go home.
Need to get together
On the big screen of poor quality appears a child in tears: “No, don’t cry”, said an old man who wanted to comfort him. The Lions will lose. The duel ends. The wildest dreams come to an end. We applaud the players before popping a few balloons. “We are a little sad, but above all very proud of our Lions”underlines, disappointed, Reda Maaité, 23, the boss’s son.
Shops are opening again. The party is over. Farewell joy, jubilation, collective ecstasy. For now. Morocco will face Croatia once again on Saturday, December 17, this time for the small final. Finish third in the World Cup? We are starting to dream…
Throughout this World Cup, Moroccans were able to rally around their national team, even if they had not bet on such a course. They say they needed to come together after the harm that the Covid-19 pandemic may have caused them, their country and their economy. Not to mention inflation (+8.3% in September) which undermines morale. Traders therefore hope that this Mondial will attract many tourists like magnets. And the rooster at Café Maaité? He will be fine.