in the Gardens of Olympus, divine bowls

The Carnavalet Museum, dedicated to the history of Paris, has a back entrance on rue des Francs-Bourgeois. It overlooks French gardens. Dwarf boxwood cut with a line trace a systematic route that leads to an unbridled entity: Les Jardins d’Olympe, a pop-up restaurant revitalized by Chloé Charles, seen in the last season of “Top chef”, former second of Septime, today hui flying chef who has just set up a brand of grocery products.

The colors spring from the boxes, the chiseled shapes stand out against a metallic background, only the smells remain in their place since everything is served cold.

Accompanied for the desserts by Andrea Sham, follower of the pastry off-piste, Chloé Charles thought of a cuisine that she says “Vegetable” to taste in one of the most polished settings in the capital. Under the gaze of pure Haussmannian ashlars, visitors line up in front of a large table topped with white, topped with vegetables and fruits reminiscent of a cornucopia. Behind, two young women with tight buns take orders and distribute metal bowls, like lunch box, in which savory and sweet dishes lie. One more queue, and the drinks concocted by Camille Vidal, a bartender concerned with the well-being of all, are in hand.

Everyone is free to choose one of the multiple tables that furnish the garden in order to indulge in the discovery of this slightly offbeat proposition. This gap is obvious from the opening of the bowls. The colors spring from the boxes, the chiseled shapes stand out against a metallic background, only the smells remain in their place since everything is served cold. The eggplant dome and zucchini tart which has a stunning graphic effect are disappointing to the taste.

But the chickpea salad with its sober finery surprises in many ways. Already, this malicious formal association of whole hazelnuts and chickpeas. Almost look-alikes, to the eye, they merge; under the tooth, one crunches, the other bends. The game is all the more delicious as accents of fennel and coriander mingle, a zucchini and some pan-fried onions melt in it.

In a very different register, a tender focaccia is spread with faisselle whose tartness is camouflaged by a bed of thin strips of zucchini and cucumber. The whole is punctuated by green beans with a green crunch. A drizzle of olive oil inscribes the table among the Mediterranean must-haves.

An iced tea later comes the time of desserts: a real poetry whispered in the hollow of the palate. The delicacy of a blackberry pavlova where the chickweed, usually decorative, leaves an unforgettable grassy imprint. The airy puff pastry of the vanilla cream pie where pistachio pieces compose a harmonious duet with the black sesame cream. And, finally, the simple white chocolate cookies on which a naive sun shines like this moment stolen from the heart of one of the most beautiful gardens in Paris.

The address The Gardens of Olympus, 16, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris 3^e. Open until October 3, Tuesday to Sunday, from noon to 6 p.m. (without reservation), then in the evening from 7 p.m. (by reservation).

The essential Sweet salad made with chickpeas and hazelnuts.

Commitment “I am for parity but, out of a team of ten people, seven women have a lot of responsibilities”, assures Chloe Charles.

The bill Around 30 €.