The white jacket-toque-houndstooth pant triptych, very little for him. “I wore the uniform for ten years in the kitchens of palaces. I have already given “, laughs Mory Sacko. The rising value of the gastronomic elite has opted for a more elegant and original outfit inspired by its cuisine, a synthesis between French culture and influences from Japan or West Africa. His white jacket is cut like a kimono highlighted by a wax yoke, an African print fabric. “We live in a society where image matters a lot and I want to carry a message that reflects what I offer in my restaurant. For me, it is a signal of freedom, a form of liberation. No doubt also a question of generation ”, says the 29-year-old chef, who also hosts a weekly show on France 3.
Mory Sacko is no exception. Like many of his peers, he considers that his chef’s outfit should be as refined and inimitable as the plate he serves. Beef stew is out of fashion; the iconic “grand chef” jacket defined in the 1970s by Paul Bocuse, too. From now on, everyone has their own look with only one concern in mind: standing out from the competition and conveying the image of a cool and inventive professional. “The dressing of the dish – in other words its presentation – has become essential; in the same way, the chefs make intense efforts to make people want to walk through their doors ”, emphasizes Jérôme Neveu, president of Advent, a marketing and influence consulting company.
Pretty to the feet
Now it’s Brummel in the kitchen – named after the first British dandy, born in the 18th century.e century. Less messy, induction ovens facilitate the adoption of more classy and comfortable outfits without compromising health and safety constraints. In front of the stove, the cap supplants the chef’s hat and the white shirt loses its monopoly. It can be beige, gray, even black, with very sophisticated cutouts. The fashionista chef calls for light fabrics, even if it means that they deform after a few washes. Non-slip, unsightly shoes have capitulated to sneakers. Jean Imbert, who has just succeeded Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée, poses with Air Jordan Dior on his feet, Jean-François Trap prefers Louboutin shoes while Jarvis Scott (“Top Chef” season 12) is nicknamed “the cook in cowboy boots” “.
“In the past, there were only a dozen well-known chefs; today, there are 26 three-star and 80 two-star establishments, and there have never been so many openings – and closings – of restaurants. Result: many called but few chosen ”, notes Nicolas Chatenier, general delegate of the association Les Grandes Tables du monde. Because he has to stage his dishes on social networks, elbow his way to participate in one of the great culinary shows, draw the attention of critics to “The unique experience” he proposes, the chef has become a fashion engraving. To be bankable, it is recommended to cultivate the sense of shift with a zest of whimsy and to break the codes.
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