In the land of Reblochon, small dairy cooperatives are organizing against the giant Lactalis

The earth shook in the land of Reblochon this summer. The agri-food giant Lactalis has taken over, with its local subsidiary Pochat & Fils, the cheese business of Haute-Savoie Verdannet, a family business for four generations. The announcement initially surprised local milk producers united in cooperatives – some talking about ” treason “ – before forcing everyone to consult.

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important player in protected designations of origin (PDO) and local protected geographical indications (PGI), collaborator of several cooperatives, Verdannet manufactures with the milk of the latter various raw milk cheeses, including Reblochon representing half of its production. This purchase therefore strengthens Lactalis’ position on the market and would allow it to “control nearly 50% of Reblochon AOP production”, according to the Peasant Confederation. Instead “a big third”replied Pochat & Fils, in a letter sent, at the end of July, to the producers.

“Dredged”

But what will happen in 2023? Given the local protest, “the 30 million liters of milk arriving today at Verdannet may no longer be at Lactalis at the end of the year”the date on which the annual contracts are signed between cheese makers and milk producers, explains an expert in the sector.

“All the cooperatives that were in contract with Verdannet came togetherexplains Jean-François Laval, director of the Federation of dairy cooperatives. There have been exchanges with neighboring cooperatives to study alternative solutions” and avoid collaboration with Lactalis. “If we fail, the next cheesemaker acquired, Lactalis will become the leader and it will be the end of the Savoyard system”affirms a farmer member of the Confédération paysanne, while milk is now well remunerated in the two Savoys.

The representatives of the cooperative wish to buy the manufacturing equipment (several hundred thousand euros) and manage the store themselves

With 22 producers and 9.5 million liters of milk, the Groisy-sur-L’Etang cooperative worked indirectly with Verdannet, owner of the manufacturing equipment for its cheese dairy. “She is flirted with by other cooperativessmiles an observer. She will have no trouble leaving Verdannet by the end of the year so as not to fall into the hands of Lactalis. » The representatives of the cooperative want to buy the manufacturing equipment (several hundred thousand euros) and manage the store themselves. Lactalis should give its answer next week.

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