In Tuscany, oil and wine: the same fight

By Margherita Nasi

Posted today at 5:00 a.m.

In 1513, Nicolas Machiavelli wrote The prince at the Albergaccio, a house located south of Florence. A few kilometers away, in the gentle Tuscan countryside, the humanist also owned an estate with a view of the Chianti hills, which was bought at the beginning of the 19th century.e century by Bartolini Baldelli. The family, long active in politics – mingling with Marie de Medici as well as with Bonaparte – has devoted itself for nearly two centuries to the two pillars of Tuscan gastronomy: wine and olive oil.

Giovanna Bartolini Baldelli, Lorenzo and Alberto Bianchi in the cellar of Fattoria di Bagnolo, July 15, 2021.

The former property of the Machiavelli is now called Fattoria di Bagnolo. On the one hand, ten hectares are devoted to vineyards – mainly Sangiovese, but also native grape varieties, such as Colorino, Canaiolo, Malvoisie or Trebbiano. On the other hand, some 6,500 olive trees come in five varieties: frantoio, morellino, leccino, pendolino and madonna di Impruneta. “We have a great history. We have chosen to make this place an exclusive sales site for individuals: nearly two thousand regular customers, coming from all over the world to discover our products ”, details Giovanna Bartolini Baldelli. Linen pants, gray cardigan, pearl earrings, the sexagenarian manages the farm with her son, Alberto Bianchi, 31 years old.

On this hot July day, they are organizing, after months of the Covid-19 pandemic, an oil and wine tasting. If the tourists have not yet returned, two tenants have however snubbed the swimming pool of the property to discover the agricultural side of their home. Giovanna Bartolini Baldelli is delighted: “Before, the residence brought together aristocrats and peasants. Today, we still live there, but the sharecroppers’ houses are rented out for the long term. It’s a bit of a community of friends. “

Tradition and modernity

Since living at the Fattoria di Bagnolo, Alberto Zanol, owner of the Rio Grande restaurant in Florence, has been seasoning his churrascos (grilled meats) with olive nectar: “And to think that before I swore only by corn oil!” “, laughs the Brazilian chef. “We even managed to get our Milanese tenant to give up butter, sacred in Lombardy, adds Giovanna Bartolini Baldelli. Isn’t it, Michele? “When I moved here four years ago, I discovered that, like wine, oil has terroirs and varieties”, confirms the interested party.

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