Kazuyuki Tanaka, the sacred Japanese chef in Reims

If he does not disdain raw fish, it is first of all as the creator of a cuisine claimed as “French” that the Japanese Kazuyuki Tanaka imposes himself at the head of the Racine restaurant, a stone’s throw from Notre-Dame Cathedral. Dame, in the historic center of Reims. In January 2020, the Michelin guide devoted a little more to the evidence of the advent of a generation of cooks from Japan to sublimate their fascination with the homeland of Escoffier. For the first time in the history of the Red Guide, one of them, Kei Kobayashi, won the Grail of a third star in Paris. At the same time, “Kazu” was shaking up the Reims hierarchy by obtaining a second badge rewarding paintings as beautiful as they are gourmet composed in his restaurant installed since 2018, place Godinot, in what was once a home for nuns.

Son of a restaurateur and owner of a Franco-Japanese brasserie who had never been able to travel to France, this former high-level footballer put his competitive spirit at the service of a passion that pushed his father’s dreams further. With courage and courage, he came to France without a diploma, training the hard way in beautiful houses seduced by his will and his instinct. The involvement of Benoît Vidal (” my brother “), in Val-d’Isère (Savoie), the refinement of Gilles Tournadre (” my dad “), in Rouen, the virtuosity of Emmanuel Renaut, in Megève (Haute-Savoie), or that of Régis Marcon, in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid (Haute-Loire) will be key examples.

Read also Article reserved for our subscribers In Reims, two starred chefs where champagne is king

Never stationed in Paris, he chose Reims to be closer to the restaurateur parents of his Burgundian wife, Marine, director of the room and the administration. The elegant sobriety of Racine’s decor – light wood tables in a 15-place dining room opening onto both the bay windows of a small garden and those of a semi-exposed kitchen – contrasts with its minimalism with the splendor of local institutions such as L’Assiette champenoise or Les Crayères. The ambition of the plates – from the swarm of appetizers to the ten dishes on the menu – does not, however, fear confrontation. “I would like to get a third star, do not hesitate to declare Kazuyuki Tanaka, if only to be able to get better products. It is often at the largest tables that they are reserved. “

Drinks from winegrowers only

Playing with a repertoire of nearly 300 ingredients, the chef says he is first of all inspired by his raw materials. Its goal : “Create emotions, surprises and memories. “ These will first be visual, as the colorful graphics of its plates are impressive. Japanese cooks have sometimes been criticized for sacrificing taste in favor of this aestheticism. Tanaka avoids the trap by justifying the presentation by the harmony – or the shock – of flavors. As the very recent very beautiful book demonstrates, Root. Kazuyuki Tanaka, a Japanese in Reims, by Chihiro Masui (Glénat, 288 pages, 60 euros).

You have 37.25% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.

source site-24