manual
Knit sweaters based on Guido Maria Kretschmer
How to knit Guido’s favorite sweater
© Dirk Messner / Guido
Sweater knitting according to Guido Maria Kretschmer: “I asked myself what a favorite sweater should be like – and let the needles chatter. Tadaa! Here it is: Everybody’s Darling.”
That’s how it’s done
Wool
Yarn from Lana Grossa, quality “Alta Moda Cashmere 16” (78% new wool, 12% cashmere, 10% polyamide), running length 110 m per 50 g – depending on the size 450, 500 or 550 g in anthracite No. 14.
You can get it in specialist shops or you can order it online.
needles
- Knitting needles 5 and 6 (if you knit loosely) or 6 and 7 (if you knit tightly). It is important that you get the information in the stitch sample.
- 1 each short circular needle size 5 and 6 (if you knit loosely) or 6 and 7 (if you knit tightly).
types of knitting
- Pearl pattern
- fret pattern
- rib pattern
gauge
… oha, does that have to be? The answer: yes, absolutely! You cannot avoid the knitting sample if you want to achieve a good result. If you simply leave out the gauge and start knitting straight away, your sweater will look completely different than you want when it is finished. So: grit your teeth, knit a mesh sample and – very important – try around with the needle size until everything is correct, namely:
Moss stitch with thick needle: 13 stitches and 20 rows = 10 x 10 cm
manual
The information for the small size is in front of the brackets, for the larger sizes in the brackets, each separated by slashes. If there is only one specification, it applies to all sizes.
fret pattern
With a thin needle. 8 rows in stockinette stitch (knit stitches on the right side, purl stitches on the back rows), purl stitches for the break edge in the following row (= right side row), knit 9 rows in stockinette stitch, in the last row fold over the waistband at the fold and place the cast-on stitch on the Get the needle and knit together with the following stitch.
rib pattern
With a thick needle over 6 stitches. At the beginning of the row: knit edge stitch, knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, repeat from * 1x, knit 1 stitch. At the end of the row: knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, repeat from * 1x, knit 1 stitch, knit edge stitch. In the following rows, always knit the edge stitches, knit all other stitches as they appear.
seed stitch
With a thick needle. In rows:
- Row (right side): Knit 1, purl 1 alternately.
- Row (wrong side): Knit stitches as they appear.
- 1st row: knit stitches.
- Row: Purl 1, knit 1 alternately.
- Row: Knit stitches as they appear.
- Row: purl stitches. Always repeat rows 1 to 6.
In rounds:
- Round: Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch alternately.
- Round: Knit stitches as they appear.
- Round: knit stitches.
- Round 1: Purl 1, knit 1 alternately.
- Round: Knit stitches as they appear.
- Round: knit stitches. Always repeat the 1st to 6th round.
Stockinette Stitch
With a thin needle. Always knit right stitches in rounds.
back part
Cast on 74 (80/86) stitches with a thin needle and knit 18 rows in waistband pattern. Continue knitting with a thick needle in the following pattern: 6 stitches in rib, 62 (68/74) stitches in moss stitch, 6 stitches in rib. 7 cm from waistband pattern, continue moss stitch over all stitches, this is where the side seam begins.
10 cm from the waistband, increase 1 stitch on both sides and then increase 4 x 1 stitch on every 14th row = 84 (90/96) stitches. Mark the beginning of the armholes on both sides 33 (31/29) cm from the waistband pattern. 18 (20/22) cm from the beginning of the armholes for the sloping shoulders on both sides in every 2nd row for size S: 11 x 2 stitches, for size M: 8 x 2 and 3 x 3 stitches and for size L: 5 x 2 and Cast off 6 x 3 stitches. Now park the remaining 40 stitches on the short, thick circular needle.
front part
Cast on 74 (80/86) stitches with a thin needle and knit 18 rows in waistband pattern. Continue knitting in moss stitch with a thick needle. 3 cm from the waistband pattern, increase 1 stitch on both sides and then 4 x 1 stitch in every 14th row. Increase R Guido booklet 1/19 = 84 (90/96) stitches. 26 (24/22) cm from waistband pattern, mark the beginning of the armholes on both sides. 18 (20/22) cm from the beginning of the armholes for the shoulder slants on both sides in every 2nd row for size S: 11 x 2 stitches, for size M: 8 x 2 and 3 x 3 stitches and for size L: 5 x 2 and Cast off 6 x 3 stitches. Now knit the remaining 36 stitches together with the 36 parked stitches from the back on the short, thick circular needle = 72 stitches over 13 cm in rounds in moss stitch, then continue with the short, thin circular needle in rounds of 2 cm in stockinette stitch. Now bind off all stitches loosely and fold the edge 1 cm inwards and sew there.
sleeve
Cast on 32 (34/36) stitches with a thin needle and knit 18 rows in waistband pattern. Continue knitting moss stitch with a thick needle, increasing 8 (9/10) x 1 stitch in each 10th (8th/8th) row for the arm slanting = 48 (52/56) stitches. Cast off all stitches 41 cm from waistband pattern.
drafting
Close the shoulder seams. Sew the side and sleeve seams. Sew in the sleeves.