Korean onggi, the pot shot of fermentation

His history

In South Korea, there is an expression to describe a dish that we find particularly successful. They say he had to “his-mate”, which literally means “the taste of the hand”. A very colorful way to pay tribute to the person who, with great respect, prepared the food for you. Because, in Korean cuisine more than elsewhere, it often happens that the dish is the result of a long and necessary fermentation process – not started the day before, but for several months. This is particularly the case for kimchi (made from peppers and lacto-fermented vegetables), gochujang (a red pepper paste) and doenjang (a fermented soybean paste): three specialties of the land of the Morning- Calm which, consumed as is, as a condiment or incorporated into recipes, works as delicious flavor enhancers.

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To make and preserve them, we traditionally use onggi, large terracotta jars, sometimes stored outside houses, in a space called jangdokdae, or buried. Their outer walls (made of porous glazed clay) allow air to circulate and – thanks to the micro-oxygenation they bring about – to optimize or stop the fermentation of food.

Its use

On an unfolded wooden table a few meters from the tiny counter of his restaurant Misso Korea (Paris 13e), chef Young-kyung Lee arranged two onggi with dark brown highlights. The largest has a capacity of about 2 liters – it is intended to ferment and store a good part of the kimchi which she makes from white cabbage, white radish, garlic, fish sauce and gochugaru (chilli powder). The smaller pot will be used to accommodate gochujang.

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The two preparations with their spicy and deep taste will be used in the composition of the dishes offered on the menu: kimchi pancakes, bibimbap (rice mixed with vegetables and a fried egg) or even jeyuk bokkeum (sautéed pork). “When I handle my onggi, I always think of kimjang, this festive period that takes place every November in Korea and during which everyone gathers with family and friends to prepare kimchi”confides the former sculptor, converted to catering in 2006. A collective culinary practice registered since 2013 in the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Unesco.

Hangari traditional round fermentation jar, 2 l, €38.89.

source site-24