Lab – What are the fries worth with the Combi-Steam mode of the Ninja Foodi MAX OL750EU SmartLid?

Launched at the start of the year with two other models – the OL550EU and OL650EU – the Foodi Max OL750EU SmartLid seems cut out to replace the Foodi Max OP500EU as soon as stocks run out. It takes up the capacity, but also most of the features, while of course also bringing some novelties, both ergonomic and functional. Ninja has notably revised the integrated lid to avoid having to use a second one to cook under pressure, and a new cooking mode is also making its debut: Combi-Steam.

This new mode is available by placing the SmartLid slider in the center on the lid and promises to bring soft and crispy preparations. To do this, it combines steam and the forced air of the Air Fry function, and is available in four programs: Steam Meal, Fry & Steam, Oven & Steam and Bread & Steam.

Softer fries with the Fry & Steam program?

Since it is customary to make fries with oil-free fryers – or multicookers equipped with such a function, such as the Foodi Max OL750EU -, we decided to double our test in order to compare the texture of fries cooked with traditional pulsed heat (Air Fry) with that of fries cooked in Fry & Steam mode. There are also some differences to note in the implementation of the two modes.

Indeed, since the Fry & Steam mode uses steam, it is necessary to remember to add water to the bottom of the tank at the start of cooking. We followed the recommended amount in the recipe booklet: 125ml for 500g of fries. The creation of steam also involves a preheating of about 6 minutes which can be dispensed with with the Air Fry mode which, if it requires a slightly longer cooking time – 25 min against 20 for the same quantity of fries —, ultimately lasts less time… and consumes almost half the energy, since it also uses only one resistor.

It should also be noted that the Fry & Steam mode does not allow the appliance to be opened during cooking to stir the fries, otherwise the steam will naturally escape and all the benefits of this mode will be lost. It is therefore preferable to avoid large batches and, even with only 500 g, it must be recognized that some fries were almost charred while others were still very pale at the end of our test. All were nevertheless cooked and we appreciated the crispy and soft side of the most cooked fries.

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We also only used one tablespoon of oil compared to three for cooking with the Air Fry mode, which for its part allows mixing to obtain a slightly more homogeneous cooking. In both cases, the crispy side unfortunately fades very quickly after cooking and you must therefore eat the fries immediately to enjoy them. Last but not least, the Fry & Steam program proved to be much messier. Since the tank was heated from below to create steam, the excess oil ended up burning off. Fortunately, the non-stick coating made it possible to clean the bowl without having to scrub too much.

Promise partially kept with fries

In the end, the Combi-Steam mode kept its promises, but only for some of the fries prepared and leaving more dirty dishes to clean, which risks wearing out the non-stick coating more quickly. We therefore prefer to stick to the Air Fry mode when it comes to fries, since it produces, at least in this case, a very similar result, leaving the opportunity to mix to obtain a more homogeneous cooking. The Combi-Steam seems more interesting to us on large pieces of meat or fish that do not need to be mixed or even turned, and we can probably also expect breads with a nice crust and a crumb. moist thanks to the Bread & Steam program.

We can still wonder if chaining steam cooking and hot air cooking would not give the same result, and if we cannot therefore find it with other appliances such as the Foodi Max OP500EU or the Cookeo Touch Wi-Fi combined with the Extra Crisp lid. We had also, for the test of the latter, cooked a chicken under pressure then in hot air and obtained a soft flesh under a crispy skin. However, Ninja’s new multicooker has many other modes and programs to offer. Find our complete test this Sunday, February 20.