Find all the episodes of the series “Surprise invitation” here.
October 2020, France is under the influence of Covid-19. By the force of the pandemic, fashion brands are called upon to reinvent themselves and explore new presentation formats. Jonathan Anderson, artistic director of Loewe, proposes the concept of the parade in a box, which is reminiscent of the Théâtre de la mode, a traveling exhibition imagined by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne to reconnect with the public, in 1945. From Europe to Asia via the United States, couriers are busy delivering journalists and celebrities close to home a funny box as an invitation to discover its latest women’s collection (spring- summer 2021).
baptized “Show on the wall”, the object that looks like a Christmas present is imposing, it weighs 4 kilos. Designed with M/M designers, this large case contains several intriguing elements: a giant drawing board featuring a 1999 archive photo by Steven Meisel, 3-meter-high posters with the looks of the collection, scissors, a large brush, glue, a bucket, as well as a roll of wallpaper designed by British visual artist Anthea Hamilton, a long-time collaborator of Jonathan Anderson. A kit show or how to bring Loewe into the intimacy of the happy recipients, invited to cut out, assemble, stage the collection… in a sort of analogy of the creative process dear to stylists.
To allow journalists present in Paris to prolong the experience – at that time, connections with Asia and the United States were interrupted – Loewe also exhibited its collection, in real life, on Stockman mannequins, in the hotel. particular of the Grand Veneur, rue de Turenne, in the Marais. In a mise en abyme, the walls of the room were lined with wallpaper by Anthea Hamilton. The looks are inspired by 16th century Spanish painting.e century. They are extra-large, echoing the injunctions to social distancing: crinoline dresses inspired by Meninas, by Vélasquez, baggy pants, giant bows, balloon sleeves, bubble coats…
As he never does anything halfway, Jonathan Anderson slipped the score of Spem in alium, a religious song by Thomas Tallis, an English composer of the 16th centurye century. The brand is simultaneously unveiling on social networks a reinterpretation of this work by Kindness, the solo project of English singer Adam Bainbridge. And, so that the immersion is total and multi-sensorial, a ceramic disc infused with a beet interior fragrance, signed Loewe, is added to the set. “I wanted something generous, says the creator. The box is an endless spectacle, which makes the Show on the wall a perfect Covid-era museum artifact. » A moment in the history of creation which reached 910 euros, during the fashion auction for the benefit of Sidaction, in January 2021.
Find all the episodes of the series “Surprise invitation” here.