Lyon, capital of street food

By Pierre Sorgue

Posted today at 12h00

It is understood: Bocuse downgraded in 2020, Lyon no longer has a triple star by the Michelin guide. But, failing to be still “world capital of gastronomy”, the city can imagine itself to be that of street food. It will be in any case from September 16 to 19 with the fifth edition of a Lyon Street Food Festival, as imposing as it is festive. Proposed by Thomas Zimmermann and Emeric Richard, the journey will take you from Brussels to Asia via the Rhône valley and Africa. Nearly 100 guest chefs, participatory workshops (cooking, oenology but also culture), DJs and groups will occupy the huge wasteland of the Fagor-Brandt factory.

Bao in a porked sweater at Substrat-La Panifacture, in the “food court” Food Traboule, in Old Lyon.

Whether they drive a star-studded brigade (Anne-Sophie Pic, Mathieu Viannay, Maxime Laurenson, Jean-Michel Carrette, Gaëtan Gentil, Romain Hubert, the Belgian Yves Mattagne …) or a food truck, all the cooks will prepare original 5-person portions. euros: Despite the period, we hold onto the DNA of the festival: travel, this melting pot of chefs outside the chapels, large tables that bring together, a stroll like in the night markets of Asia, temples of street food “, underlines Emeric Richard, who frequented this part of the world a lot during another life devoted to finance.

Read also Michelin Guide: the Paul-Bocuse restaurant loses its third star

Today, Thomas Zimmermann and Emeric Richard run Nomad Kitchens, an agency specializing in event catering that mobilizes food trucks and other ephemeral stoves. Well placed to measure the enthusiasm of the Lyonnais for this new way of eating. It first flourishes with trucks in the parking lots or on the campuses of the agglomeration. Emeric Richard can cite more than thirty of these mobile kitchens where inventive chefs make their debut.

Concern for the product and the short circuit

He there is these two young women from Rocket’s, Doriane and Océane Desroches, for example, who offer tasty meatballs or vegetarian dishes accompanied by fragrant Thai rice or vegetables brightened up with lemon or mint; Dimitri Crochet in his Papa Gusto, vice-champion of France for pizza in 2019, who amazes with the dough of his focaccias; Ayman and Caroline Youness who, from 2012, offered Lebanese cuisine so seductive that they now run two establishments and a counter in the prestigious Halles Paul-Bocuse; Arnaud Caillard and the Le Duke caravan, whose excellent burgers are all named after a character from Big lebowski, the film by the Coen brothers. Each of these “street chefs” speaks with passion about his creations, his concern for the product and the short circuit, cites the butcher, the baker or the market gardener as a partner, confesses the stress mixed with the pleasure of cooking in front of the customer this express gastronomy.

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