Milan, a new magnet for young talents?

Milan, historic city of luxury houses, does not have the reputation of being the favorite city of young designers, who often prefer London – more welcoming – or Paris – turned towards foreign countries. Is the balance of fashion weeks changing? Be that as it may, three emerging labels marked this Milanese season, presented from February 22 to 28.

For its first fashion show, Andreadamo caused a sensation. Styling and make-up were provided by the two big names in each sector: respectively Katie Grand and Pat McGrath. And we saw the most popular models of the moment pass by, who probably lowered their price out of friendship for the designer.

Andrea Adamo, a stylist who worked for Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana, felt the need to get started during the 2020 confinements. For this first draft, the Italian, who sees “the body like a temple and the flesh like an Eden”, was inspired by a Berlin club, the Panorama Bar. Under the epileptic lights, we could distinguish openwork clothing revealing a shoulder, a drop in the kidneys or a top of the thigh. But also a thong bodysuit with a vertiginous cut, delicate lacing to hold pieces of fabric on the chest, skin-tight knit dresses like second skins. A sexy fashion embodied by women with varied morphologies, all proud of their bodies.

A collection without parade

Dhruv Kapoor, Indian couturier based in New Delhi, presents a collection without parade, static mannequins gathered, in the basement of the Museum of Italian Design. Even so, frozen, these silhouettes do not lack panache, incorporating a unisex and formal base (three-button jacket, blue shirt, jeans) with extravagant elements, such as this very beautiful embroidery of sequins mimicking The wave of Hokusai on a long gray coat.

Dhruv Kapoor.

In this contrast between austerity and fantasy, there is Prada… “It’s my favorite brand! », admits the designer, who details: “In India, we are always in excess of colors, fabrics, prints. When I arrived in Milan for my studies, I discovered minimalism and navy blue! Today, I mix the two. » He shares his taste for sobriety with traditional Indian craftsmen, who make his embroideries in order to obtain a wardrobe “triggering emotions”. “I want to dress the mind more than the body, so that you feel powerful and fearless inside. »

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” Please stand up ! It’s a standing parade. You, in a pink coat, I see you, come on, let’s get up! » At the Sunnei show, which takes place in a deserted street, where a platform has been erected, a female voice on the microphone rebukes the tired guests with an authority unusual in fashion. The public is not the only ones to make an effort: the mannequins pass by running, pricking a race all along a vast warehouse. All of this is ” a performance “ imagined by the French-Italian duo of Sunnei, who gently poke fun at the frenzy of fashion week, where guests spend their time running from one show to another, stressed at the thought of missing something, and the noses still glued to their phone.

Sunnei.

“It’s okay if you don’t focus on the looks, they’ll be immortalized by your iPhone and you’ll look at them later,” reassure Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, who suggest filming the parade in “slow motion”. Clothes, we did not really remember much, except that they looked comfortable enough to run in, and that we would look at them again in peace, once fashion week past.

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