As if nothing had happened, or almost. In Milan, the time of fashion weeks has resumed its little routine, well known to regulars: monster traffic jams, dressed fashion editors being stopped in the street by hordes of photographers in need of silhouettes to immortalize, flocks of young people fans posted at the exit of the fashion shows in the hope of spotting one of their idols, quite possibly one of the stars of the social network TikTok, unknown to the more than 30 years. The only notable change? Systematic request for a health pass at the entrance to the various events.
From September 21 to 27, the presentation of the Italian women’s spring-summer 2022 collections made once again vibrate in the Lombard capital, after two seasons punctuated by the pandemic and digital parades. In total, 65 parades, including 22 still presented by interposed videos, punctuated the week.
In a happy mood, the players in the sector are visibly happy to meet again. The mild temperatures of the Indian summer are probably not for nothing. A festive atmosphere that has spread to the catwalks of the creators. “This is my first public show for Fendi and it’s a celebration”, notes the Englishman Kim Jones in the note of intent accompanying his collection for the Roman house.
Created in collaboration with the archive collection of flagship 1970s fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, the collection evokes disco nights and the heightened glamor of Studio 54, a New York nightclub. “ Lopez was a close friend of Karl Lagerfeld and he has always inspired me. He was innovative, inclusive, admired by everyone from Andy Warhol to Steven Meisel and David Hockney. I wanted to present it to the new generation ”, he explains. Certain illustrations are thus integrated into jacquard pieces, on vaporous caftan dresses or on the iconic bags of the house, the Baguette or the Peekaboo. The pace is full of confidence.
It is around a different kind of celebration that the German brand Boss brought together 600 people, in the open-air Kennedy Sports Center stadium, on the outskirts of the city. For his second collaboration with American sportswear label Russell, Boss made it big: baseball players, cheerleaders swirls, fanfare, hot dog trucks and raging supporters as extras. ” VSit had been so long since we had been able to do this kind of life-size event, it feels good! “, welcomed the artistic director, Ingo Wilts, after the show. Pieces with sporty accents available in every angle, from sweatshirts to bomber jackets, shoes and fanny packs … nothing has been forgotten, to the delight of millennials who should not miss this collaboration well packaged.
The joy took a more bohemian form at Etro, who summoned on his podium, in an atmosphere of “inner peace”, colorful cashmere and floral prints, signature of the house, on long dresses, bras or pants. with a very seventies aura. Here, even the rain gear is cheerful and comes in candy pink. “ I lived this period as a rebirth, I wanted each piece to radiate “, explains Veronica Etro about her very solar collection.
At N ° 21, Alessandro Dell’Acqua has fun with the body, creating sets of cutouts in skirts – already short -, sleeves or necklines, revealing the skin. Her long and transparent dresses, her bustiers encrusted with jewels, her long boas worn at arm’s length or her mini-dresses embroidered with sequins and feathers offer a wardrobe tailored for nightlife.
A desire to let go that also resonates with Giuliano Calza’s collection for his brand GCDS. Jeweled dresses, colorful shirts designed in collaboration with the cult manga One pieceFrom faded pink jeans, crochet beach dresses to pants fully embroidered with sequins, the allure is festive and shaped to go to nightclubs by storm. “The collection had to be joyful, why do you want to piss people off after the period has elapsed?” “, laughs the 33-year-old designer. Mission accomplished.
Beatnik inspiration
Even the most rigorous creators have been able to be daring. This is the case of Luke and Lucie Meier at Jil Sander who have offered a collection faithful to their aesthetic codes: large elegant suits, impeccably draped coats or tight-fitting dresses with the perfect cut. The side step is nestled in electrically patterned crochet dresses over a tiger-print coat or jewelry set on the neckline of a blouse.
Stylish surprises that we find at Max Mara, inspired this season by the beatnik era. The codes of the sixties – small overcoats, wise skirts, three-hole dresses – are shaken up by bright colors, feathers affixed to a long skirt, work clothes or simple bandeau bras worn under long coats. The art of the cut, always perfectly mastered at Max Mara, imposes a wise and effective silhouette.
Giorgio Armani, who is celebrating the 40th anniversary of his label Emporio Armani this year, has proposed a collection articulated around his great classics, always perfectly executed: comfortable denim trouser suits, light chiffon dresses fashioned in a palette. pastel colors or a series of Japanese-style sets in electric colors.
Finally, MM6 Maison Margiela offered an aperitif parade on the terrace of La Belle Aurore, a café well known to Milanese. A celebration of living together, which the line’s creation studio has expressed through playful pieces inspired by the artists of the surrealist movement, Dorothea Tanning, Leonora Carrington and Claude Cahun. Jeans and jackets covered with large red and green checks, bustier and suit in kraft paper, sleeve escaping from the back of a leather jacket, rope in trompe-l’oeil print on a fair-fitting … The spirit is playful, and the atmosphere around this aperitivo, happier than ever.
