Motionless journey to San Sebastián, the pearl of the Spanish Basque Country

By Pascale Desclos

Posted on March 09, 2021 at 4:00 p.m.

Dreaming of the ocean in music

Van Gogh's Spanish group La Oreja

Originally from San Sebastián, a city of musical effervescence, the Spanish group La Oreja de Van Gogh (“Van Gogh’s ear”) has imposed since the end of the 1990s its melancholy style, its poetic lyrics and its electro pop sounds. in Spain and Latin America. A success confirmed by 6 million records sold. The powerful and lyrical voice of the singer, Leire Martínez, seems to have its source in the oceanic climate, the waves and the mists of the Cantabrian coast. To realize this, you just have to close your eyes to better immerse yourself in their last album with a premonitory title, A susurro en la tormenta (“A whisper in the storm”), released in September 2020 on Sony Music.

A Susurro en la Tormenta, by Van Gogh’s La Oreja, music.youtube.com, Sony Music, € 13.99.

Enter the universe of the master of Land art

At the end of La Concha bay, three pieces of nine tons of steel are anchored in the rocks of the coast, whipped by the waves of the Cantabrian Sea … The Comb of the Wind is the most famous work of the master sculptor of San Sebastían, Eduardo Chillida (1924-2002).

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Failing to discover it for real or to visit the artist’s monumental sculpture garden in Hernani, 7 kilometers from San Sebastián, we dive into his universe with a short documentary film presenting the exhibition “La gravedad insistent” which was dedicated to him at the Abattoirs de Toulouse in 2018. More than 60 works in steel, clay, alabaster, and paper, which bring an innovative look at the place of art in nature and the limits of space .

“La Gravedad Insistente” exhibition, Toulouse slaughterhouses.

Understanding the ETA years

San Sebastián, 1968. The Spaniards live under the dictatorship of an aging Franco, Basque culture and language are prohibited, ETA does not disarm… Short and brilliant novel by Fernando Aramburu published in 2014, Slow years brings us back to the dark period which preceded the autonomy of the Spanish Basque Country, obtained in 1979.

Read the review of “Patria” (in 2018): The novel that reconciles the Basques

We follow Txiki, a poor little boy from Navarre, sent by his mother to live with his uncle and aunt. The child, now an adult, meets a writer and remembers the welcome of his adopted family, the neighbors of the neighborhood, the mustaches of the Guardia Civil, the ferocious independence priest, the friendship that gradually binds him to his cousin. Julien, enlisted in the ranks of ETA. The reader attends in parallel to the making of of the story.

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