MORNING LIST
With their abundantly stocked stalls, the scent of roast chicken, coriander or brioche, dishes cooked “like in a restaurant”, coffees swallowed at improvised counters, the crowd that hurries and friends who greet each other, the food markets conceal vestiges of the world before. Here are five, which animate the cities, against and against all restrictions, including local weekend lockdowns, while waiting for life to resume.
In Boulogne-sur-Mer, maroilles and bodeguita
This Saturday morning, we are agitated on the cobblestones of the place Dalton (named after an officer of Irish origin of the XVIIIe century), at the foot of the elegant Saint-Nicolas church. The market is old: photos attest to its presence in the 19th century.e century. Alongside vans offering raw milk mimolette, ambleteuse, maroilles, charcuterie or loaves of bread, producers of the Opal Coast present their vegetables, on simple folding tables, hidden under old woolen blankets when it is cold. .
The barge will find leeks, black radishes, carrots, Brussels sprouts, parsnips, and then eggs and some large poultry from the farm, not always calibrated. Women sell honey from the beehives and jams made from last summer’s fruits. At a street corner, the “Bodeguita café del medio”, a small stall painted in black, serves coffees, mulled wine from mid-morning and rum arranged to the sound of a Latin tune. The prices were written by hand on a card. “Don’t stand in front of the counter,” warns a poster.
Place Dalton, Wednesday, Saturday, even during weekend lockdown.
In Malakoff, families and faithful
In the cities of the Paris region, the market acts as a village square, where the parents of students exchange news, the neighbors recognize each other by glance and the elders entrust their worries to their favorite trader. On Sunday morning, in Malakoff, 80 merchants are gathered under the glass hall, renovated and brought up to standard in early 2020. To access it, on busy days, you have to wait between metal barriers on the Place du 11-Novembre, where the town hall, the cinema and the 71 Theater are also held, named in homage to the Paris Commune.
The market attracts old Malakoffiots workers, Algerian and West Indian families and well-to-do couples who have just bought a small house in this city which borders Paris. Their children learn, as if they lived in the countryside, to taste a piece of Emmental or a quarter of an apple. “The customers are loyal, we find them every Sunday at the same times”, testifies Kervin Chettiar Sinivassen, who works as a salesman at the Reunionese caterer. The morning continues in the square, where 70 hawkers are installed, and in front of the cafes, which sell drinks to take away.
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