Niacinamide, this vitamin that promises flawless skin

Whether you have combination skin, oily, skin problems, dryness, redness or even wrinkles, you can turn to niacinamide. This active ingredient, also called vitamin B3, is naturally synthesized by our body. However, much of the niacinamide from our diet or food supplements does not work on the skin, but in our body. This is why it is important to apply it topically with creams or serums so that all the benefits of this active ingredient – which is much less irritating than other vitamins – are fully absorbed by the skin. And this is all the more important since niacinamide works on many aspects of the skin and is very versatile. It is also compatible with some of the most widely used active ingredients in skin care. But if we hear about it lately, it is mainly because of masked skin, this skin damage caused by prolonged wearing of the mask. Niacinamide is particularly recommended in this type of case, as it treats inflammation, acne, while being soothing to the skin and restoring the skin barrier. You will understand, niacinamide is undoubtedly the beauty active to have in your bathroom in 2021.

What is niacinamide?

Less known than vitamin C or vitamin E, niacinamide is also called vitamin B3, vitamin PP or nicotinamide. This vitamin is actually made up of two molecules: nicotinic acid and nicotinamide. In the INCI list of your treatments, you will find it under its usual name, so you can quickly find out if your treatment contains any. Integrated into a cosmetic product, niacinamide has a major function: it is a smoothing agent that reduces irregularities and / or roughness of the skin so that it is more uniform. This vitamin is soluble in water and has a pH close to that of our skin, which is 7, which allows the most sensitive skin types to be able to use a product containing it without fear of skin reactions. Generally speaking, vitamins all have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions, but niacinamide is one of the most versatile. It is also one of the most stable cosmetic active ingredients because it is neither sensitive to light nor to heat. In general, it is of plant origin or obtained by synthesis so that it is better absorbed by the skin and therefore more effective.

But then how does it work on our skin? Roughly speaking, we can say that niacinamide is a good communicator. It will send a message to all types of cells in our epidermis asking them to make healthy cells. It also stimulates our production of ceramides, lipids that bind cells together, which strengthens the skin barrier. Thus, our skin is better protected against external aggressions, such as pollution, and it will be less prone to dehydration.

What are the benefits of niacinamide?

Niacinamide for acne

If you turn more naturally to zinc or azelaic acid when you have acne, you should know that niacinamide is also effective against these pimples. Here, it is its anti-inflammatory effect that comes into play. Indeed, niacinamide will therefore reduce this inflammation and therefore the redness of the pimples so that they disappear over time. In general, it is more favorable to use an anti-inflammatory rather than an antibacterial treatment to treat acne, because with this second option, there is a higher risk of rebound effect or that the bacteria adapt, which makes the buttons more complicated to remove. On the other hand, if you have severe acne, niacinamide may not be effective enough, as it will work on mild acne instead.

In addition, niacinamide will also work from the inside on the appearance of pores. It will prevent dirt from entering and attaching to the pores. If your pores are clogged, she will take care of "unclogging" them, allowing them to permanently regain a slightly more normal appearance and therefore to have less visible pores for a more refined skin texture. It regulates and limits the production of sebum, which clogs the pores and therefore makes blackheads appear. By acting on these three points, niacinamide fights effectively and over the long term against acne. However, you should know that it is recommended to use products with a minimum concentration of this active ingredient of 5%. And with its soothing effect, it won't irritate the skin, unlike most acne treatments which are more aggressive.

Niacinamide against wrinkles

Say goodbye to fine lines and wrinkles with this active ingredient. Niacinamide helps stimulate the production of collagen which helps erase the first signs of aging. Being an antioxidant, it also prevents the formation of UVB-related wrinkles by protecting it from oxidative stress, which is one of the main causes of the appearance of wrinkles.

Niacinamide against redness and dryness

The two often go hand in hand. Dry, hydrated skin is often characterized by roughness, but also skin redness. Concretely, it is by acting on the skin barrier that she is able to do all of this. It stimulates cell regeneration thanks to the production of ceramides which allows better repair of the skin. Thus, the skin’s barrier function is strengthened and it limits hydration losses. A deficit in the production of ceramides automatically leads to skin dryness, but also to increased sensitivity and possible desquamation. Its anti-inflammatory action will reduce overheating as well as irritation and therefore skin problems such as rosacea. It is an active ingredient that is all the more interesting for sensitive skin because it calms the itching and neutralizes the itching process.

Niacinamide against pigment spots

This vitamin particularly helps to erase scars left by blemishes, but also pigment spots which may be due to excessive exposure to the sun. This action is less known, but is nevertheless interesting, especially for mature and acne-prone skin. It will regulate the production of melanin, which causes the appearance of these dark spots. While this lightening power can also be found in vitamin C, glycolic acid or retinol, nicotinamide has the advantage of not being photosensitizing and therefore of being able to be used in the morning without risk of irritation.

By acting on all these aspects, niacinamide will also bring radiance to the skin, which is why it is not surprising to find it in "radiance" creams.

How to integrate niacinamide into your routine?

You will understand, vitamin B3 can be used by all skin types who will find something to help them with their skin problems. You should know, however, that if niacinamide is so well tolerated by the skin, it is partly because it is not as active as these sisters. Thus, it will take some time before you see the effects on imperfections, spots, hydration or even wrinkles. What's great about this active is that it is compatible with virtually all products and actives that we use every day. You have probably heard that it is not recommended to put a cream containing niacinamide if just before you have applied a serum with vitamin C. More precisely, it is better to use these two assets alternately, using a in the morning and another in the evening. But you can use a niacinamide-based care product if you use AHA, BHA, retinol, peptides, hyaluronic acid, or vegetable oils in your routine. It will also enhance the effects of vegetable oils, but also of glycerin, sodium PCA (which is part of the Natural Hydration Factor) or even sodium hyaluronate, a derivative of hyaluronic acid. It is also preferable to use a treatment combining niacinamide with another active ingredient. On the one hand, niacinamide will boost the effect of the second active ingredient, and on the other hand, the latter will act on the skin in the short term, while nicotinamide will act more on the medium and long term. This is why we find serums combining niacinamide and zinc against imperfections, or niacinamide and hyaluronic acid for hydration and against the signs of aging.

If you want to purchase a treatment containing niacinamide, there are a few recommendations that you should follow to be sure that this product is effective. The concentration of this active must already be at least 2%, or 5% if you want to focus on your imperfections. You should know that you can also combine niacinamide-based treatments, by applying a serum then a cream, for example, without this impacting the quality of your skin. Serums are more recommended as an attack treatment if you have acne or wrinkles, because in this type of product, the niacinamide is more concentrated and will therefore be more effective. On the other hand, if you have redness, if your skin is dehydrated or dry, choose a cream that will be combined with other active ingredients that meet your needs. Another indication, leave-in care will also be more effective, because the active substances will have time to act in your skin unlike cleansers which are rinsed with water, as well as all the active ingredients they contain.

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